Sound deadening and Insulation tip.

[greythorn3]

what about the burlap sacks?

Ray

[Max]

If you choose to use paper and burlap sacks, then don't forget the space heater that sits on the passenger floor on top of that pile and plugs into the cigarette socket. Just seems fitting but wear nomex!

[Shawn F.]

Old thread I know but I wanted to throw a tip in there. I have heard that this stuff WILL smell in the heat but then some others said it doesn't. Guess it all depends. But if you put it inside of your doors then DO use POR15 to seal the bare metal and have a clean surface to place this stuff on or else it will trap moisture in the heat and rain and rust out the doors from the inside out.
Works great.

[JFCDeuce]

Old thread I know but I wanted to throw a tip in there. I have heard that this stuff WILL smell in the heat but then some others said it doesn't. Guess it all depends. But if you put it inside of your doors then DO use POR15 to seal the bare metal and have a clean surface to place this stuff on or else it will trap moisture in the heat and rain and rust out the doors from the inside out.
Works great.

As mentioned ealier, I live in Las Vegas and drove my AMC all summer in the 120 drgree heat.. I never did notive the smell. the entire floor is a sigle layer with a jute backed insullation on top.

[Shawn F.]

That is good to know. I am going to buy some of this sometime in January since, as for most people, December is hard to buy anything for myself because it's christmas time.
I need to buy a gallon of POR15 and do the entire interior of the cab and then paint the inside and THEN go buy heaps of this stuff for my 66 F100, 76 F150, my Honda daily driver and my 46 Chrysler. You can buy bulk in jute from upholstery shops online or in your area for fairly cheap with the double sided foil or single sided.

[Xcessive]

just as a heads up this stuff is cheap too. You get get a 6" (inch) x 25' (foot) roll for around $12-15. Never had a problem with the smell either.

Give ya what I do and what works best for ME.

1. Prep the surfaces well. I usually use my shop vac first to get all the loose stuff. Then I go over it with a wire brush (both drill mounted and by hand to get the hard to reach places ). Next Ill just use some soap and water with a brush to get any grease/grime out. Dry it off really good with a couple rags. Last Ill use my air hose to make SURE there is no moisture left.

2. Just start Laying it down. I usually do 2 layers on the floor, firewall, doors and in our case back of the cab behind the seat. Then Ill do the roof and what ever else I want with just a single layer. Then I go back and tape all my seams with Alumn. tape. (Note: On your second layer lay it opposite of how you laid the first. Like if most of your peices are laid front to back, lay the second layer from right to left. This helps overlap and block seams and will prevent from getting gaps in the peel 'n seal.)

For the floors I DO add a layer of Jute on top of the peel 'n seal. Then I lay the carpet (duh).


If you clean the intended surfaces well this stuff is next to impossible to get back off.

[Shawn F.]

I had to tear off Dynamats peel n seal stuff like this once on a pickup in the doors to put a shaved door handle kit on... The stuff wouldn't come off. We had two people pulling on it at the same time with all of our weight and only got a couple inches up. We decided to leave it alone and cut through it. That is the only bad thing in case you ever need to pull it up. I'd recommend POR15 under it though in case moisture ever gets under it or anything like that. As for the jute, do you guys use the double foil sided kind of the kind where the foil is on only ONE side?

[BarnieTrk]

For my two cents, I'll say this is the most important comment out of all those thread posts is this one:

"....DO use POR15 to seal the bare metal and have a clean surface to place this stuff on or else it will trap moisture in the heat and rain and rust out the doors from the inside out.

My other observation on this subject is that the insulation isn't so much for keeping the cab warm/cool, but rather for reducing the drivetrain and road noise...
Personally, I enjoy listening to the purr of my 390" (with longtube headers & DynoMax Turbo mufflers) and the whir of the gears from my T-18!

BarnieTrk

[DanSanDiego2000]

[albumimg]6894[/albumimg] [albumimg]6891[/albumimg] [albumimg]6890[/albumimg] [albumimg]6888[/albumimg]

Hello,

I purchased this insulation off of eBay. It came in 4ft x 10ft rolls, and 4ft x 50ft rolls. Including shipping, the price came out to $0.75 per square foot. I see at least 1 ad on eBay for authentic Dynamat, and it works out to $6.25 per square foot. Sounds like Dyna-Crack to me !!

The rolls I bought were not adhesive backed. I used the headliner spray glue, and it was great to work with. I sprayed the truck, and the material, lightly with glue, allowed to tack-dry, then rolled and pressed into shape. It was easily repositionable while working, and once you got it easily contoured and pressed into place, it was stuck firmly.

Here is a link to the vendor on eBay I used. I bought 200 sq ft for my cab, and used over 150 sq ft of it. It is so affordable, and so versatile, that it made more sense to buy extra than to cut corners and buy less. You would not figure on using 100+ sq ft in a cab, but stock up, and use it in the doors, behind the gas tank, and on the ceiling.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4-x-50-E ... ccessories

I even threw out my nasty old firewall pad, and rather than spend $185 on a new ABS firewall pad, I doubled-up on this stuff, and I am going to cover it with headliner material. The old firewall cover made of tar paper and jute was probably not as efficient as the new technology we use now.

[Shawn F.]

Bringin' a thread back from the dead! Thanks for the comment. Since this thread is bumped back to the top I will make a few more comments. I have been studying insulating and sound deadening for my 80 El Camino and my 68 Lincoln Continental and came to a conclusion on what I will now start doing on all my interiors. First is to strip the entire interior out and sand/clean all bare metal and the entire floor and ceiling. Pre clean with solvent and water based wax and grease removers then POR-15 or use a very good epoxy primer (I recommend nothing but SPI primers and clears). After that THEN you can use something like the peel and stick but make sure it's a Butyl type. www.sounddeadenershowdown.com
Look at that site. The owner is VERY helpful and prices are very good. Keep in mind that you do NOT need to do every step that is explained and sold at that site. In my El Camino I ran out of money and went ahead and just did the peel and stick type material. I spent $70 on them and was able to do the entire floor, smuggle box (goes under the bed) and ceiling and some of the doors and firewall. The rest I went to www.lobucrod.com and ordered his stuff for insulation and to finish sound deadening. Doing just this will be better than factory and insulate much better than factory as well. The lobucrod.com stuff does not hold or absorb moisture and is fire resistant. That is the key to this stuff. Reason a lot of floors in old cars rust out so quick is because the jute matting holds moisture and rots out the floors quickly instead of breathing to evaporate moisture. I recommend doubling up the lobucrod.com insulation though to make a big difference.
If you want the cab to be VERY quite then use every step/product from Sound Deadener Showdown and you will have a BIG difference in sound control. It all depends how much you want to spend and how picky you are. I will have pictures of my El Camino soon to post pics of. I know it's not a Ford or anything but I have every step of before, during and after. I am big on being very picky about the things that are not seen on a vehicle such as the floors, wiring and underneath. I like to try and seal/paint these areas to keep them from causing problems years down the road.
Enough rambling from me... Read the Sound Deadener Showdown site, it has good info on sound deadening.

[DanSanDiego2000]

The lobucrod.com stuff does not hold or absorb moisture and is fire resistant. That is the key to this stuff. Reason a lot of floors in old cars rust out so quick is because the jute matting holds moisture and rots out the floors quickly instead of breathing to evaporate moisture. I recommend doubling up the lobucrod.com .

I fixed the link on my posting. It works now. Looks like Shawn F. and I both have great luck with Lobucrod.com. The Lobucrod.com site and the eBay seller are one and the same.

If you like his product, you should not keep quiet about it.

Dan

[Shawn F.]

Oh haha I tried clicking on your link and it didn't work. I didn't know it was the same that is funny. Yeah it's great stuff and if you double it up then even better! Stuff is good to wrap your heater box in to keep noise out from that area too which I notice on old cars that a lot of exhaust and engine noise is from that plastic heater box. Good to use this stuff as a seal as well or a gasket....

[ABA]

Great info, thanks for bringing this thread back to life.

[kstones63]

This is what I used in my truck. It's a lot like DynaMat but a lot cheaper.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/100-80-M ... ccessories
I used 2 layers on the floor with pad and carpet on top of it. I hope that it is quiet when done. I also did the inside of the doors for noise reduction.

Kevin

[UNIFAN]

I saw some interesting stuff at a NSRA show called Lizardskin. It seems to apply like a spray in bed liner. Anybody ever had any experience with it?

[Max]

I sprayed LizardSkin in mine but I'm still building it so no road test yet. It is a two-part, sprayable coating. Ceramic heat shield and then a sound deadener. You don't have to apply both but should.

This will eventually be primed and painted, even though most of it will be covered by carpet, headliner, etc. Took about 2.5 days to complete everything and clean up. This is about half-way through:

[macgiobuin]

I got a roll of "deadener" from Pep Boys....$24.99 for a 3 foot x 6 foot roll. Not as cheap as eBay, but cheaper than Dennis Carpenter or LMC Truck.

[BarnieTrk]

I sprayed LizardSkin in mine but I'm still building it so no road test yet. It is a two-part, sprayable coating. Ceramic heat shield and then a sound deadener. You don't have to apply both but should.

This will eventually be primed and painted, even though most of it will be covered by carpet, headliner, etc. Took about 2.5 days to complete everything and clean up. This is about half-way through:

Looking good, Max!

I think what you're doing is the way to go - especially when you live where you do with as much high humidity as you regularly get, the moisture would condensating behind most other insulations and be causing rust to go crazy beneath/behind the material! Super Job!

BarnieTrk

[Uncle Skip]

FWIW, I used several varieties of foil backed insulation.
Some with the heavy jute, some with the thin jute, and some of the double foil backed bubble wrap type.
The heavy jute and foil went on the vertical surface behind my seat and floor of my cab, the thin jute went on the ceiling and the bubble type went inside the door skins.
In all cases, I used liquid nails to hold things in place. It doesn't let go in the heat like the spray on adhesives tend to do.
On the over head part I used magnets to hold things in place and tape on the rest while the liquid nails set up.
Also, I would suggest that unless you're using a spray-on like Max, don't cover the seams.... leave a small area so can dry out it won't collect moisture.
Nothing exposed to moisture should have a surface that will attract and hold moisture.
And be careful with the rigid foam. The only place I used that was to keep the cross bow in the headliner area from flexing and booming.
Uncle Skip

[Mazlem]

A couple really good places for sound and heat insulation are www.raamaudio.com and www.secondskinaudio.com