So here are some pictures of the waterpump off my 429 that is semi built. As some of you know I am having heating issues with the engine. So we decided to pull the pump off and look at it...I am not sure what manufacturer makes it or if its a good one or cheap one.
And instead of the water running into the housing this gasket is what backs the pump
We are thinking its cheaper due to the blades, and when looking at most high flow expensive pumps they have a different setup...
Just looking for any insight and what you guys would recommend as a better pump unless this one is?
Hi , i have a friend that has a 351 cleveland in a t-bucket and he told me that his use to run hot because his after market water had to much clearance between the impellar and the machined suface of the pump he changed to a factory pump and that fixed his heating problem,so check the clearance if you buy another pump check out a flowcooler brand pump
I'm not sure how every thing is with the rest of your cooling system. Make sure it has plenty of flow and water and not too much spase between the radiator and fan you also you need plenty of air flow. I got tierd of my 223 running kinda hot so I put a big block seirese griffon raidator in the plase of the stock one with some modifications and longer flex raidator hoses. It has gone from alabama to my house with out over heatting and from here to gulf port (about 63Miles) at 70 mph and it never got hot.one time it got almost to 180 degreese since I did this. And see if you have a thermostat and see if it is working.
Jim H. Shiflet jr. my pictures are at photo bucket shifletjr is the name on the album. Click this link to see my pictures http://m815.photobucket.com/profile/shifletjr .also look at newest uploads and mobile uploads. 1964 costume cab and 2 ford f650 flat bed wreckers. and now a 2008 chrysler convertible
Years ago doing fleet work which mostly involved the 534 CuIn engines, we had some overheating troubles with engines that had water pumps of that type impeller construction. As it turned out, the hub of the impeller would expand with heat a bit more than the shaft and would slip. We finally drilled 2 small shallow holes, 180 degrees from each other at the junction of the shaft and impeller, pushed in a BB and peened the metal to keep the BB in place. No more slipping and no more overheating.
If you really think it is the pump then this one looks a lot better
Motorsport M-8501-C460 search google images
Most of the time overheating is caused by an old radiator with plugged passages. We changed to a 6 blade high flow flex fan and smooth hoses before we did the radiator. Ours is happy now.
Have you purchased that new starter yet?
If you want to inspect your existing starter I can tell you what you are looking for.
before you take it apart the main shaft should have about 1/16" of end to end play. more and the brushes don't run properly less and it will bind when hot. either way it won't start when hot.
The main shaft should spin freely without rubbing anywhere.
disassemble
The bushings at either end should show little to no wear.
The brushes should all look the same and not look too worn.
The commutator should be smooth and bright
There should be no oil or grease anywhere near the commutator.
The windings should not show signs of heating or discoloration
It should not smell burnt
There should not be a significant amount of dust built up in it.
If everything looks shiny and new then degrease it all
Polish the commutator with some 320 grit wet or dry new sand paper.
Put the tiniest amount of grease on the bushings
Rub a grease film onto the paper /steel spacers in the end.
Do not finger print the commutator.
Reassemble trying not to damage the brushes.
Recheck end play.
Test it before you reinstall it.
It should have a good snap and want to twist out of your hands.
Tech
