CNC Work Needed - Anyone?

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banjopicker66
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CNC Work Needed - Anyone?

Post by banjopicker66 »

Anyone: I need some CNC work done, and hope somepone here can help out.
I am the Commander of our local camp of the Sons of Confederate Veterans, and we use pop-up tents for re-enactments, displays and fundraising.
Unfortunately, our 4 tents have broken center caps. They are otherwise still very usable. These caps have 4 pivots for the support arms, and enthusiastic folks don't pay enough attention to how to fold and unfold the frame, so the plastic cap gets broken.
Would someone be willing to make them for us? They could be of nylon or some other plastic, or metal; I would defer to your judgment.
Here is a picture for evaluation:
http://fordtruk.com/forums/album_pic.ph ... user_id=48
I will send an almost good one one for a template.
I am willing to pay, but I can also give you a letter for tax deductions.
Thanks!

John M. Sutton
Commander, Col Charles Jones Colcok Camp #2100
Sons of Confederate Veterans
banjopicker1966@hotmail.com
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Rusty 63
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Post by Rusty 63 »

Looking at it, i'd suggest a hole-saw'd circle with four pieces of steel angle & weld it up. Compared to plastic it'd be bullet proof, and I bet cheaper than a cnc job...
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The Big M
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Post by The Big M »

I tend to agree. A welded assembly would likely be cheaper in this instance, especially since you only need 4 pieces.

You could have it made from 5 pieces of plasma cut plate. Four vertical ribs and one circular base. The vertical ribs could have slots cut into them so that they would lock together like puzzle pieces for alignment, then the whole assembly could be welded up.

What's the approximate diameter of the circular base?
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Post by banjopicker66 »

Thanks for the ideas guys, this is an area totally out of my expertise. I don't know how to weld, and don't much more than hand tools for equipment.
M, the approximate diameter is about 2.5 inches.
By the way, although the holes are threaded, they don;t need to be - a nut and bolt will suffice.
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Post by Max »

Almost looks like the legs on those typical fold-open lawn chairs. Have you looked for replacement parts? Seems like they would be fairly inexpensive.
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Post by banjopicker66 »

Got 'em from Harbor freight, no parts available.
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Post by fire truck »

You should be able to make those pretty easy, I would bet that would cost around $50 to get those made on a CNC.
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Post by BMJ's 65 »

I'd be interested in making those for you. I've got access to CNC mills and lathes. I could do those out of billet aluminum for the cost of material and enough extra to cover a case of beer 8) I'd guess material would be around seven bucks a piece. Pretty simple deal in one of the mills. PM me if you want me to look into it further. I'd be more than happy to help out a fellow Slickster.
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Post by jeremyfx4 »

I just looked at the pic. and kinda went off what you said about the 2.5" OD. But give us some dimensions on the piece. Just take this print into paint and type some numbers in.

Image

Image
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Post by Max »

That's just cool! 8)
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Post by banjopicker66 »

That is WAAAAY kewl! woohoo.gif worship.gif

Here are the dimensions, and a picture of the special caliper I used to measure it with.
whistle.gif

http://fordtruk.com/forums/album_pic.ph ... user_id=48

http://fordtruk.com/forums/album_pic.ph ... user_id=48
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Post by MadMaxetc »

CNC will cost more, but there are guys out there with them in the garage that could make them.

Could just be milled (NON Computer Controled)

jeremyfx4,
That is good. Do you use PRO-E or Solid Works? I use CATIA V5. Would you mind a liitle input on your design?
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Post by jeremyfx4 »

Madmaxetc, i use solidworks, i wouldn't mind input. Let me guess what you are going to say. Rads where i have sharp corners?
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Post by banjopicker66 »

MadMaxetc wrote:CNC will cost more, but there are guys out there with them in the garage that could make them.

Could just be milled (NON Computer Controlled)
:oops:

Shows you how much I know about this subject!
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Post by MadMaxetc »

jeremyfx4 wrote:Madmaxetc, i use solidworks, i wouldn't mind input. Let me guess what you are going to say. Rads where i have sharp corners?
DING!!

Also there are no fillets or driven rads. That is realy going to limmit the part.

For Al We use .12" for fillets and .22" for Driven Rad.
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Post by Greg D »

I would imagine that fillets could be left in as long as the tubing clears it. It would be less prone to cracking that way too.
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BMJ's 65
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Post by BMJ's 65 »

Greg, that's what I was thinking. I'd profile the entire thing from the top and leave the corner radii in place for strength. Depending on how long the tubing sets in the slots, a guy could get away with a 1/8" or 3/16" radius. Buzz a corner radius cutter around the top to finish it off and your set.
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Post by fire truck »

Wow that's pretty cool guys!
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Post by The Big M »

Good job guys! I use SolidWorks and Inventor myself.

And my original comments regarding cost are now rendered moot since BMJ's 65 is willing to do it for the cost of material! :thumright:
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Post by banjopicker66 »

Everyone - I sure appreciate the help. Words fail me to express it.
I added 2 pictures to show the correct and incorrect orientation, and hope they will help.

Correct, when the top is up, but you can see this one is nearly gone. The top flange needs somehow to prevent the tube from pushing up.

http://s1031.photobucket.com/albums/y37 ... C03172.jpg

WRONG way!

http://s1031.photobucket.com/albums/y37 ... C03171.jpg

Thanks again so much.
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