1965 ford wiring help
1965 ford wiring help
here is what i have gang,i have a 1965 for truck with a 1973 ford 302 motor,i changed the distributor to the hei (gm type).every thing else is the same, fender mounted solinoid,voltage regulator,ford alternator,except for a aftermarket fuse box and a aftermarket 4 prong ignition switch with,acc-bat-st-ign on switch.i have been trying to make sense of all the different wiring colors and what goes here and what goes were and what colors now attach to what.basiclly i have a mismatch of parts and colors that a wiring diagram from the 1965 ford truck just does not help me.please help if anyone can guide me,i sure could use it,getting very frustrated!!thanks
You are going to have to tell us exactly what the problem is your having. With aftermarker wiring we have no clue either. Not trying to be a smart a$$ here but we need more specifics.
Michelle
Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what to have for dinner. A Republic is a well-armed sheep.
I hope I always stay crazy, because I know if I ever become sane, it will drive me crazy.
Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what to have for dinner. A Republic is a well-armed sheep.
I hope I always stay crazy, because I know if I ever become sane, it will drive me crazy.
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Re: 1965 ford wiring help
[quote="... an aftermarket fuse box and a aftermarket 4 prong ignition switch with,acc-bat-st-ign on switch.i have been trying to make sense of all the different wiring colors and what goes here and what goes were...[/quote]
Has the fuse block in the light switch been rewired?
OK.
Understanding how it works usually makes things a little easier. If you're just asking about the new ignition switch, here is the deal.
"acc-bat-st-ign on switch......."
You have a heavy [usually yellow] hot wire coming in to the switch, either from the fuse block or directly from the batter.
In the on position one wire goes directly to the coil (+) thru a dedicated dropping resistor wire, and puts 12 volts to all your other switched accessories on the fuse block. Look for a wire running from the switch to the fuse block and test it with the key on.
Switched hot will include the heater blower and or AC motor, radio, and other accessories.
FYI Things like lights, brake light, and windshield wiper are hot all the time but are hooked up with a wire that runs from the battery directly to the fuse block and then to those individual switches.
The start position has a wire that goes directly to the (s) terminal on your solenoid to energize the starter only..... The (i) terminal wire on the solenoid goes from the solenoid to the (+) terminal on the coil, but it is only hot with 12 volts when the starter is on. When you move the key back to the on position it loses its 12 volts. This wire is to give the coil a temporary full 12 volts for starting but doesn't allow the voltage to burn up the coil.
The accessory position energizes all your circuits EXCEPT the coil.
The color of the wires really doesn't matter if you can locate where the items you need to hook up are.
Use a multi-meter or a test light and a helper and you should be able to noodle it out. Just take some tape and a sharpie and label everything when you check it.
I know this is complicated, but I hope this helps a little bit.
U@ss
Has the fuse block in the light switch been rewired?
OK.
Understanding how it works usually makes things a little easier. If you're just asking about the new ignition switch, here is the deal.
"acc-bat-st-ign on switch......."
You have a heavy [usually yellow] hot wire coming in to the switch, either from the fuse block or directly from the batter.
In the on position one wire goes directly to the coil (+) thru a dedicated dropping resistor wire, and puts 12 volts to all your other switched accessories on the fuse block. Look for a wire running from the switch to the fuse block and test it with the key on.
Switched hot will include the heater blower and or AC motor, radio, and other accessories.
FYI Things like lights, brake light, and windshield wiper are hot all the time but are hooked up with a wire that runs from the battery directly to the fuse block and then to those individual switches.
The start position has a wire that goes directly to the (s) terminal on your solenoid to energize the starter only..... The (i) terminal wire on the solenoid goes from the solenoid to the (+) terminal on the coil, but it is only hot with 12 volts when the starter is on. When you move the key back to the on position it loses its 12 volts. This wire is to give the coil a temporary full 12 volts for starting but doesn't allow the voltage to burn up the coil.
The accessory position energizes all your circuits EXCEPT the coil.
The color of the wires really doesn't matter if you can locate where the items you need to hook up are.
Use a multi-meter or a test light and a helper and you should be able to noodle it out. Just take some tape and a sharpie and label everything when you check it.
I know this is complicated, but I hope this helps a little bit.
U@ss
I'm not arguing with you. I'm just explaining why I'm right.
Pardon me. Does your deaug bite?
Pardon me. Does your deaug bite?
