Hi all,
Every now and then, my column shifter locks up when I'm shifting gears and I'm unable to get it working without popping the hood and working the linkage. It pops loose and then everything works fine again.
On either end of each shift linkage is a rubber/brass bushing. Both bushings by the column look new but the ones down by the trans look pretty shot. There's quite a bit of linkage slop at the lower bushings.
Since it shifts fine most of the time, I'm suspecting that the lower bushings cause intermitant binding and are the source of my problem. Does this sound right ? Also, can someone confirm for me that the lower bushings are the same as the upper bushings ? I can only find the upper bushings in my parts catalog.
thanks.
John.
3 spd column shift linkage help needed
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ClanCassidy
- Posts: 35
- Joined: December 29, 2006, 10:51 pm
- Location: Brighton, Michigan
3 spd column shift linkage help needed
"Honest Honey, this should be the last thing I need to buy for the truck".
- mikecarson
- Posts: 596
- Joined: July 9, 2006, 5:59 am
- Location: Richland, Texas
- Contact:
Please ban bbslck@yahoo.com if he doesn't learn that this is a family friendly site.
Mike C
64 CC, Crown Vic project
62 CC
67short 94 F150, 433W
Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive body, but to skid in sideways - body worn out and screaming: Woo Hoo, what a ride!"
64 CC, Crown Vic project
62 CC
67short 94 F150, 433W
Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive body, but to skid in sideways - body worn out and screaming: Woo Hoo, what a ride!"
You don't say which year truck you have, but there are a number of factors involved in the shift linkage of our trucks, not related directly to the transmission. If, your cab mounts are bad, this will cause problems with the linkage. By cab mounts, I don't just mean the rubber discs the cab sets on, but also metal failure from rust decay or cracking from metal fatigue. This lets the cab move around changing shift linkage settings. This can cause binding of the steering on 61 thru 64 trucks, and rag joint failure on the 65 and 6 trucks, along with premature wear on all components affected. To the best of my knowledge, there are no bushings on the lower linkage arms. If badly worn, then you must rebuild these with resouorces at hand. I have brazed holes shut, and then drilled new holes the right size, and also brazed the wear psots on linkage rods and filed these to fit. Usually means I ahve to redrill the holes for the hairpin clips or cotter keys.
Rich
Rich
- lincolnslick
- Posts: 59
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- Location: victory mills new york
mikecarson wrote:Please ban bbslck@yahoo.com if he doesn't learn that this is a family friendly site.
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- bobenhotep
- Posts: 911
- Joined: January 9, 2007, 4:15 am
- Location: Las Cruces, NM
- Contact:

if the problem is indeed the slop in the lower end of the linkage, you could make little bushings from copper pipe like they use for natural gas or brass fittings. you might have to drill the linkage holes slightly bigger to fit the "bushings"...other than that 64 f100 pretty much covered it.
For every person with a spark of genius, there are a hundred with ignition trouble
My '63 short wrongbed
"The Iron Rhino"
300 I6, 3 spd manual, DS II/ HEI ignition.
Stuff I added to Hints and tricks
-300-6 choke tube repair
-duraspark II/ HEI
-Horn ring contact tube repair
-turn signal indicator fix
Mikhail Kalashnikov and Nikola Tesla are the guys i think of when i build things.

My '63 short wrongbed
"The Iron Rhino"
300 I6, 3 spd manual, DS II/ HEI ignition.
Stuff I added to Hints and tricks
-300-6 choke tube repair
-duraspark II/ HEI
-Horn ring contact tube repair
-turn signal indicator fix
Mikhail Kalashnikov and Nikola Tesla are the guys i think of when i build things.

-
ClanCassidy
- Posts: 35
- Joined: December 29, 2006, 10:51 pm
- Location: Brighton, Michigan
- mikecarson
- Posts: 596
- Joined: July 9, 2006, 5:59 am
- Location: Richland, Texas
- Contact:
Some child with some bad language made a post that has since been deleted, along with the child.lincolnslick wrote:mikecarson wrote:Please ban bbslck@yahoo.com if he doesn't learn that this is a family friendly site.
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Mike C
64 CC, Crown Vic project
62 CC
67short 94 F150, 433W
Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive body, but to skid in sideways - body worn out and screaming: Woo Hoo, what a ride!"
64 CC, Crown Vic project
62 CC
67short 94 F150, 433W
Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive body, but to skid in sideways - body worn out and screaming: Woo Hoo, what a ride!"
check you repair manual for adjusting the shift linkage. I had the same problem along with a cracked shift collar for the previous owner trying to jam the tranny into gear. The adjustment sounds strange as you adjust till the linkage goes together without pulling, the turn it several turns tighter. Mine is a '65 and the adjustment worked. check the repair manual for the number of turns. if you don't have a repair manual and do have a '65, I'll look it up again and sent it to you.
Thanks Mike C!!
On my "65" 3 on the column the trans shifter arms have brass and rubber bushings.
Mine a re a little loose.
On the top of the column next to the column shifter arms is a raised tunnel.
I took my shift rods off of the trans arms and put a 1/4" drill bit in the tunnel and through the column shift arm holes.
This holds the column shift arms in nuetral.
Then adjusted the threaded dealys till they went into the shifter arms smoothly.
As a post above said, you are supposed to adjust them up a few more turns tighter.
Since I had some wear I just went by how the shifter arm felt when in the cab.
By the way, I need a couple of those clips that hold the shift rods onto the trans arms.
Richard.
On my "65" 3 on the column the trans shifter arms have brass and rubber bushings.
Mine a re a little loose.
On the top of the column next to the column shifter arms is a raised tunnel.
I took my shift rods off of the trans arms and put a 1/4" drill bit in the tunnel and through the column shift arm holes.
This holds the column shift arms in nuetral.
Then adjusted the threaded dealys till they went into the shifter arms smoothly.
As a post above said, you are supposed to adjust them up a few more turns tighter.
Since I had some wear I just went by how the shifter arm felt when in the cab.
By the way, I need a couple of those clips that hold the shift rods onto the trans arms.
Richard.
All your Slicks are belong to us
