Brake question

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willy3486
Posts: 817
Joined: July 11, 2006, 10:31 am
Location: Smithville TN

Brake question

Post by willy3486 »

Here's a question about brakes. They work some but not good. Heres what has been done. I have new steel lines,the hoses are older but were replaced. The brake wheel cylinders seem to be ok no leaks. I replaced the old crappy 1 bowl master cylinder with a 2 bowl for a 68 mustang. Alll parts mounted fine and no leaks from what I see. The problem is I have to pump them many times to get them to stop. More so than it should compared to how it worked before. They will eventually stop but the brake pedal goes all the way to the floor. I have bleed them 2-3 times. I may need to get a different rod that goes on the brake pedal. Seems like its needs some lengh. Do they make adjustable rods? I think someone mentioned them and if so what do I ask for. Any suggestions on the truck?
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Dan64
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Joined: April 3, 2006, 3:28 pm

Post by Dan64 »

Is your new dual-bowl m/c for a manual drum/drum setup? It does make a difference - also makes a difference that the front and rear circuits are hooked up to the correct ports.

There are lots of different m/c units out there for different applications. Regarding the push rod - if your pedal's going all the way to the floor at first, but then the brakes eventually do pump up, it's something in the hydraulic system. An incorrect-length push rod would cause incorrect pedal travel consistently at all times.

Dan64
willy3486
Posts: 817
Joined: July 11, 2006, 10:31 am
Location: Smithville TN

Post by willy3486 »

I believe it is for the drum/drum type. I tried to get one like that. I do have a proportional valve where you let more presssure to one set of brakes. I don't remember which one has it connected,front or back. I followed the dual master cylinder upgrade that was posted for the 61-64 trucks. The only change was the master cylinder. And yes it does eventually get some firmness in the pedal. I forgot to mention when I changed out the rear end pumpkin one of the springs on the brakes in the back was broke from age. I replaced it but have not pumped them down again.
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Dan64
Posts: 7
Joined: April 3, 2006, 3:28 pm

Post by Dan64 »

The proportioning valve may be the problem - were you referring to the instructions for dual m/c conversion with a disc/drum conversion? The prop valve is needed in a disc/drum setup to throw more pressure to the front disc brakes.
tomrooster
Posts: 613
Joined: July 28, 2006, 8:31 pm
Location: Monroe NJ
United States of America

Post by tomrooster »

Did you bleed the master cylinder? It usually has to be done. Tom
1966 F250 Camper Special parts truck
1966 F 100 w/391 ft
1965 F 100 project
1958 Edsel Pacer Convertible
1953 ford Customline 2 door
1952 8N
1967 triumph Bonneville

I'm still not a good welder but I've become a good grinder
willy3486
Posts: 817
Joined: July 11, 2006, 10:31 am
Location: Smithville TN

Post by willy3486 »

I have the prop valve now to where it is open at full volume. By bleeding The mc are you talking about putting in fluids before you connect the brake lines? Is so I didn't do that. But I will try that.
blackagatha
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Joined: March 10, 2007, 12:49 am
Location: Arizona

Post by blackagatha »

I put a dual bowl in my '63, - I believe from a '68 galaxy, designed for disk/drum, power, with no booster, no proportioning valve, dual-push wheel cylinders all the way around, and put on auto-adjusters. For drums all the way around, it worked pretty decent. I don't know that I bled the MC, because I had no idea... but it worked fine. Not as well as the disc conversion on the front does now, but I never had any problems with it.
'63 with 390 & lots of juice. But never enough. Always want more.
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