I have a 352 3 speed in my 66 truck. I have put 3 exhaust manifold gaskets on the passenger side. First time manifold was cracked. 2nd I got another manifold after about 3 days it blew again and was told manifold was warped. Guy sends me another and this time I had it "trued" at a local machine shop before installation...it lasted about a week and gasket blew again. All work was done by a respected shop here at home. Anybody got any ideas to whats going on? Any suggestions or alternatives or tricks?
Thanks....EzRodder
Blown Exhaust Manifold Gasket
Blown Exhaust Manifold Gasket
You get more done with kind words and a gun than you do with just kind words....Al Capone
Pull the manifold and check he head surface with a metal ruler. FE heads are known for "Erosion" when a manifold leaks for any length of time. The only long term fix is to machine the surface flat again, which of course means pulling the head.
You can try some thick fiber gaskets, I believe Fel Pro makes them.
You can try some thick fiber gaskets, I believe Fel Pro makes them.
As R Pope stated, these ol' boys can develop 'erosion' if a leak occurs.
The leak can actually cut a groove right out of the manifold or head sealing surface.
If the groove is more than what the gasket can seal, it'll blow out there again. A copper gasket will usually be soft enough to conform and seal minor scratches or pits.
Once you've removed the manifold again, inspect both the head and the manifold sealing surfaces to determine the source of the leak(s).
I have had ok/good luck with my badly pitted heads by smearing some high temp RTV on the head sealing surfaces and on the gasket (head side) as well.
Then bolt my headers down evenly and then let the RTV cure overnight before starting it up.
Good Luck & keep us posted with your progress.....
BarnieTrk
The leak can actually cut a groove right out of the manifold or head sealing surface.
If the groove is more than what the gasket can seal, it'll blow out there again. A copper gasket will usually be soft enough to conform and seal minor scratches or pits.
Once you've removed the manifold again, inspect both the head and the manifold sealing surfaces to determine the source of the leak(s).
I have had ok/good luck with my badly pitted heads by smearing some high temp RTV on the head sealing surfaces and on the gasket (head side) as well.
Then bolt my headers down evenly and then let the RTV cure overnight before starting it up.
Good Luck & keep us posted with your progress.....
BarnieTrk
Some of the new Sanderson headers say to only use RTV silicone when mounting. Using any gasket will otherwise void the warranty. I know this is probably irrelevant to the topic but whatever.
"If you don't want to stand behind our Troops, feel free to stand in front of them."
1964 Ford F100
1967 US Army M416
1964 Ford F100
1967 US Army M416
So does anyone have a good source for the copper gaskets in case I can't get them around here? The previous gaskets I used were FelPro but were not copper.
Will have to wait until after Christmas anyway. I don't know if Santa or Obama cost me more this year!
Thanks guys!
EZ Rodder
Will have to wait until after Christmas anyway. I don't know if Santa or Obama cost me more this year!
Thanks guys!
EZ Rodder
You get more done with kind words and a gun than you do with just kind words....Al Capone
Not really irrelevant, Ford did not use gaskets originally for the same reason. When the trucks were new there was no gasket between the exhaust manfold and the head. Gaskets were used when the surfaces became irregular but they were not built that way and using them allows for even more irregularity to creep in. I simply put the manifolds on and get it hot and torque them. Drive it and allow it to cool and do it again. After a few drives the leaks go away if the surfaces are even remotely clean and true. HawkrodMax wrote:Some of the new Sanderson headers say to only use RTV silicone when mounting. Using any gasket will otherwise void the warranty. I know this is probably irrelevant to the topic but whatever.