Re-drill Twin Beam Pivot Point to get LOW!

[Mexiamericano]

Hey guys, anyone ever heard of redrilling the beam pivot point higher on the bracket to lower the front? I ran across a post on another site, and the dude said he redrilled the pivot hole higher and cut his springs 5" to accomadate for camber. With this he was able to achieve a 3-4" drop. I cant find that stupid page now!!
I got under the truck this past weekend and noticed that there is about 2-3" of space available to redrill the pivot hole and noticed that 5" would be about 2-2.5 coils cut off.
I have my eyes on a complete dropped axle setup w/ disc brakes, power steering and more but if it falls through i would like to try this as an alternative while i save money for the crown vic or dropped axles(not sure yet lol); anyone ever do this or know of someone who has? If so, what are the pros and cons? Let us know, THANKS!

[Greg D]

Been quite awhile since I had a twin I truck but;
I was looking at the same thing, as long as the geometry remains similar and there is travel room don't see any reason it can't be done.
You will also need to adjust the radius arm pivot to match. Watch out on the steering linkage geometry too.
You measure it out well enough it will probably be more accurate than when Ford built it, lol.
I would HIGHLY recommend new urethane bushings if you do it though.

[MadMaxetc]

You will get the beams realy close to the crossmember, but you could cut some notches it it to fix that. It can be done, you just limit the travel a lot.

[Mexiamericano]

Been quite awhile since I had a twin I truck but;
I was looking at the same thing, as long as the geometry remains similar and there is travel room don't see any reason it can't be done.
You will also need to adjust the radius arm pivot to match. Watch out on the steering linkage geometry too.
You measure it out well enough it will probably be more accurate than when Ford built it, lol.
I would HIGHLY recommend new urethane bushings if you do it though.

Right on Greg D, I was going to look into the bushings as I had also noticed that the current ones are brittle and may be the cause of my mysterious clunk when riding over bumps...

[Mexiamericano]

You will get the beams realy close to the crossmember, but you could cut some notches it it to fix that. It can be done, you just limit the travel a lot.

By notching will it compromise the integrity of the crossmember? And as for travel I rarely load this thing up so it shouldnt be an issue...

[MadMaxetc]

The crossmember gets loaded when you twist the frame, like in a turn or going over uneven ground. It is way oversized for a light duty truck that is used more like a car.

I don't think it will be a problem. I just wouldn't autocross it.

Just remember the more you lower it, the less travel you will have, so to do it right, you would have to put a stiffer spring in. But that makes the ride ruff/hard. If you keep the stock spring and just cut it off, you will probably hit the bump stop more than normal. Just increase your inspections and drive it nice at high speeds and you should be OK.

[mikewirth]

I lowered mine by putting in 3/4 ton spring pockets and cutting 1 turn out of the spring, I then had roughly a 4-5 in drop that works great with little outlay of cash.

[Mexiamericano]

I lowered mine by putting in 3/4 ton spring pockets and cutting 1 turn out of the spring, I then had roughly a 4-5 in drop that works great with little outlay of cash.

3/4 ton from a 61-66? Did you use the springs as well?