Ignition switch removal

[1966 M-100]

Lost find my keys, so I ordered a new ignition cylinder with keys. Can't figure out how to remove the old one (think I need a key to do that). So tried to remove the whole ignition switch, but having trouble with that too.
The switch seems to be held in by a spring, so I pushed in to compress it but then what? The bezel does not twist off as I thought. Can anyone tell me how to get the switch out and install the new cylinder?
Thx...James

[bunchoftrucks]

I had the same problem with my last truck I ended up drilling it out. I ended up using a 1/4 " bit and worked it around until I could turn it from the back side. The way to do it 'properly is to insert the key ,turn it to the ACC, insert a paper clip and remove the lock cylinder. Just be real careful to not drill too deeply as you'll hurt the switch. After the cylinder is drilled out then you can turn the the swith and seperate it from the bezel. Some locksmiths can take the code of you door lock and cut you a key that will work in you ignition, that is if you door key and igniton were still the same key.

[banjopicker66]

The ignition cylinder prevents the back from coming off the bezel, so you have to remove the cylinder first.
If you lost your key, you will indeed need to drill the cylinder out, but do not go too deep or you will ruin the electrical part of the switch.
Fortunately, you can get a replacement switch for about $15 at your local parts stores. It was used in Broncos up to '77.

[1966 M-100]

Thanks for the reply. My door locks are the same, so I will try a locksmith.

[61 Merc]

Jim, if your door locks are the same, pull one out and take it to the locksmith and they should be able to make you a new key, and you won't have to buy a new ignition.

Dean

[1966 M-100]

Any trick to removing the door lock or is that pretty straight forward?

[61 Merc]

Pull the door panel off and there should be a spring clip holding the lock into the door. Pull the clip out and then the rod either just loops through the hole or there may be a retainer on it, get the lock rod out and the lock should fall out.

Dean

[banjopicker66]

This work is best done with the window all the way up.
To remove the lock cylinder:
Use a long and large flat screwdriver to slide the 2-fingered clip off the lock cylinder first. This step is also necessary to remove the cylinder from the linkage.
To remove the linkage:
On the lock's actuating arm is a sliding metal clip. This clip retains the linkage wire to the actuating arm, and has a spring loaded tab to retain it onto the lock cylinder's arm. Gently lift the tab end of the clip (close to the center of the lock) and push it off. Manipulate the cylinder in a rotating motion to disconnect the linkage.

It is far easier to do than it sounds in words!

[bunchoftrucks]

Yup that's the easy part too the fun is when you try to get both arms and your head in there ( and in my case with glasses on ) to put it all back together. Like many things on our trucks the satifaction comes with the price of frustration, but for me well worth the price!

[1966 M-100]

So I removed the door lock and got a key cut. Unfortunately the ignition tumbler was so worn as was the old key that the new key would not work. Decided to drill out the cylinder and replaced it. Must have damaged the switch because the cylinder turns too easy and the starter does not operate. So I drilled out the cylinder again and ordered a new one along with the switch. Still having trouble getting the old switch out, the bezel does not want to come off and I don't want to break it. I want to make sure that I am twisting, prying, pulling in the right direction. Any help would be appreciated.

PS - After all this I found the old keys #*@%^!

[Gary Seymour]

Ooooooooooh my.......................

[unibody madness]

The good news is that when your done you will NEVER forget how to do this.
The thing is having enough strength in fingers and wrists to compress them towards each other, and then twist them apart...counter clock . Once done you will be amazed at how easy it really is .

[1966 M-100]

You are right, learned to never lose my keys again
Do I turn the bezel counter clockwise or the switch counterclockwise?

[rickairmedic]

well yes . You can turn them both counter clockwise while pushing them towards each other it is quite fun at that angle .



Rick

[unibody madness]

Yea what rick said.
the bezel is not supposed to turn because of the two detent notches.... however after all these years and abuse it probably will turn at least a little. Try not to make it worse, hold it still from the front and twist from the rear.
Remember its a grand hobby!

[1966 M-100]

Finally got the ignition switch out. The truck is 4 hours away, so I only see it once a month or so. The replacement has 4 posts; IGN, BAT, ACC, and centre post ST. The original has about 4 wire to a cetre post and three that come out of the side. Not sure how the hook up the new one?

[William-in-St George]

Wrong switch! Replacement will have 3 tabs and the rubber plug simply plugs in. The post is power for switched separately fused accessories. The one you have could be made to work with a start button. Personally I'd get the correct switch. Carpenter sells them. IMHO!

[1966 M-100]

I ordered the switch from LMC, but I will try Carpenter. Thanks!

[banjopicker66]

The switch in the middle picture is not factory correct for our trucks. Is it the one that came out, or is it the one you want to put in?
The replacement switch has the proper shaped receptacle to accept the rubber plug seen in the first and third picture, but a new one will have one extra spade connector outside the plug. It isn't used in our Slicks, so you can ignore it. (It is a ground at START to provide a witness circuit for the BRAKE warning light. This switch is used in the early Broncos up to '77.)
All the box stores sell this switch for about $15: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp ... SWAMS_____#
See the extra tab outside the plug receptacle? That is the one you do not use.