5.0 EFI/HO swap questions

[dotcentral]

I have a set of ford Mustang-type shorty headers. Might have been off the T-Bird donor, hard to remember it has been 3+ years ago. Anyhow, on one header the stock O2 sensor fits fine. Other side (Driver Side?) the threaded fitting is too large for the O2 sensors I have to mount securely. it is about 1/8" bigger all the way around and the threads are not damaged in any way.

Should there be something else that screws in between the O2 and the header? Are the O2 sensors made as right and left sides, not to be interchanged - so maybe I have two right (or left) side O2 sensors? Something else I am missing? Maybe an extra sensor, or adapter of some sort? I pulled this motor 3 years ago, so maybe I am forgetting how it goes back together. If need be, I can buy another set of headers or grind off the existing fitting and get the right one welded in. Or try to find a sensor with a larger threaded section.

[FORDMANLCRACKEL]

I just looked at a set of mustang factory shorty headers that i was given that came from a 90-93 HO and there is no o2 sencer on neither header. I was thinking on the mustang o2 sencer was on the H pipe.

Lonnie

[randyr]

Yeah, I just pulled a '92 5.0HO yesterday from a Mustang GT. The O2 sensors were on the exhaust pipes just below the factory headers. They appear to be the same size.

[cooter]

could be a hole for a pollution pump line

[dotcentral]

Maybe the headers were off the t-bird. I no longer have the bird to try & check. Guess I could snoop on a T-bird site and see what they have to say.

[dotcentral]

The more I think about it, pretty sure these were T-bird headers. Maybe it was for EGR crap?

Anyhow I ground the oversized fitting off and a friend welded in an aftermarket 02 fitting.

[dotcentral]

I have been working on this, slowly.

More questions. What are you doing for EGR block off plates? I see lots of places make them. My T-bird based 5.0 has an slightly off center upper bolt, Kinda of an upside down & backwards "L" shape is needed - Mine is on the back of the TB, guess that's where they all mount? Maybe I will build my own, based off the EGR I pulled. I think I may have a unique style due to the T-Bird powerplant. Q: Are you all using a Gasket or RTV to seal these?

Gas pedal vs Throttle cable. Anyone got ideas to share for cheap/easy solutions? Maybe a 90's era Ford pedal will work?

How does the stock Ford "Kickdown" cable hook up to the throttle body?

I am going to try and mod a 73-79 auto shifter linkage to work with my AOD and 70's era auto column. Trying to low buck it but will do Lokar if that's what it takes. Comments or suggestions on this?

Alternator: My RJM harness has a 1 wire alternator hookup. My 1991 T-bird donor has the older style alt. Do I need to bite the bullet and buy a 1 wire, or is there an easy fix? Mounting the alt. I guess I will use the old style Ford mount, since I am not using the smog pump. Has anyone modified the Ford cast aluminum Alt/Smog mount to look halfway decent?

Air cleaner. Thinking I will have to make a mounting bracket to position the MAF sensor where I need it on the inner fender and use a K&N style cone. I would prefer to use something more stock looking, but not sure what other way to go. any other ideas?

Thanks in advance.

[Harper]

Gas pedal vs Throttle cable. Anyone got ideas to share for cheap/easy solutions? Maybe a 90's era Ford pedal will work?

i am thinking of using a Mustang Pedal assembly, however I have not gotten this far yet, as I am still in the "engine pedestal" mode. As long as you have the full travel of the throttle body when the gas pedal is to the floor you should be in good shape.

[jamesdfo]

If you are referring to the egr line that bolts to the back of both cyllinder heads, with a crossover that hooks to the air pump, all I did on my SBF years ago was unbolt it, cut off the section of line that went to the smog pump (leaving only the crossover between the cyllinder heads)...then I ran an autobody sanding block with some 180g across the side of the end plates that was originally facing out to make sure they were flat and had no paint on them. Then, I simply reversed it, and placed it back in position with the freshly sanded areas facing the heads. Now, when you bolt it up, there is no hole in it to allow exhaust to flow from the heads through it.......
I know there are higher tech ways of doing it, but this method works, and is as low buck as it gets:)

[dotcentral]

Gas pedal vs Throttle cable. Anyone got ideas to share for cheap/easy solutions? Maybe a 90's era Ford pedal will work?

i am thinking of using a Mustang Pedal assembly, however I have not gotten this far yet, as I am still in the "engine pedestal" mode. As long as you have the full travel of the throttle body when the gas pedal is to the floor you should be in good shape.

Full travel for the TB, and that the pedal has good range of motion and not overly sensitive. Meaning, it can be "feathered" to get a decent of speed control and not an ON/OFF switch where it is all gas or nothing.

[dotcentral]

If you are referring to the egr line that bolts to the back of both cyllinder heads, with a crossover that hooks to the air pump, all I did on my SBF years ago was unbolt it, cut off the section of line that went to the smog pump (leaving only the crossover between the cyllinder heads)...then I ran an autobody sanding block with some 180g across the side of the end plates that was originally facing out to make sure they were flat and had no paint on them. Then, I simply reversed it, and placed it back in position with the freshly sanded areas facing the heads. Now, when you bolt it up, there is no hole in it to allow exhaust to flow from the heads through it.......
I know there are higher tech ways of doing it, but this method works, and is as low buck as it gets:)

James I dug up the old EGR line, looking at it I see it is a much simpler shaped than the "L" I posted above. I will use some scrap heavy guage sheetmetal and make a block off plate.

Trying to remember, the EGR had lines going to the heads didn't it? EDIT: The EGR went to the pass side shorty header, which I modded into an additional O2 sensor fitting.

[randyr]

Trying to remember, the EGR had lines going to the heads didn't it? I got the engine in, may be hard to cap those ports now. Crap!

If you're talking about the tubing that bolts to ports on the back of the heads, I believe those are part of the smog pump system and can be plugged. http://www.rjminjectiontech.com/collect ... smog-plugs

[dotcentral]

Randy, that's it. I later realized that plug is for the exhaust header fitting. Which I ground off and welded in a second O2 fitting. At least that is solved.

[dotcentral]

Got the EGR situation solved. Making my own EGR block off plate out of some 1/4" scrap.

I thought I ordered the RJM harness with the A/C wiring, turns out I did not. I will have to add something so the A/C compressor kicks off when I give it the gas.

Got the upper intake torqued down, my Haynes manual does not mention gasket sealant on the upper intake or the Throttle Body. Anyone know the torque for the T.B. to the intake?

Need to lengthen the harness to get my coolant Temp sensor hooked up. Have to graft in the correct throttle position sensor, as my T-Bird throttle body requires a different TPS than the RJM harness.

Planning on hitting the salvage yard tomorrow for a 73-79 auto column shifter linkage, a section of TPS wiring harness for the situation described above, stand alone alternator mount, maybe some O2 sensors to fit my harness, or cut off some Ford O2 connectors to splice in (hate to do that though), and some misc. fasteners. Will try to get ideas for air cleaner mounting. I have read that Crown Vic have an air cleaner system that lends it self to these swaps. My T-Bird air tube is not quite long enough or flexible enough to do what I'd like. I could probably make it work, and keep the battery where it is or relocate under the bed.

Need to position my alternator, figure out where to mount the A/C compressor, than order something. I am trying to decide between a Vintage Air and Southern Air in dash system.

Anyone got some detailed underhood photos of Mustang or T-Bird 5.0? like to make sure I account for everything. My Haynes manual isn't overly detailed.

[randyr]

Here are some '92 Mustang pics....

[dotcentral]

Thanks Randy. I see more differences than I would have thought between that and my 91 T-Bird 5.0. But it does help.

[rickairmedic]

want to see even more differances I can pop some underhood picks of my 88 crownvic donor tomorrow .


Rick

[dotcentral]

Sure, post 'em up.

Plan on hitting the pull a part yard later today for some parts, going to look at CV for parts as well.

[randyr]

Planning on hitting the salvage yard tomorrow for a 73-79 auto column shifter linkage,

Look forward to seeing what you come up with on this one because I need to do something similar. I would like to keep the column shift but don't want pull the shift lever out of the trans. I've studied the process a little but not sure what I'm going to do yet.

[dotcentral]

Randy, I wound up with a 70 auto shifter rod. It was a hot, humid day, I kept forgetting various tools under car hoods and having to back track and look for them, plus I forgot my shopping list. At least the girl at the checkout took pity on a old guy, she priced everything dirt cheap.

I also got a longer flex air tube from a Crown Vic, Alt mount, a MAF elec plug to splice into my RJM harness, a half dozen or so assorted fasteners, and one or two other items I can't recall.

The first two 73-79's didn't have anything I could use. When I found a 70 F100 with a 302 and automatic I grabbed what I thought I could use and hit the road. Can't recall seeing many bumpsides with a factory auto column, but I think this will get me started. May have to shorten or lengthen the rod, and likely throw in a bend or two. It has a fixed end and about a 3-4" threaded end with a swivel connection on it. Wasn't able to get the plastic/rubber bushing out of the trans shifter arm, but figure the HELP section at the parts store should have that. If I get it fabbed up I'll take some photos.

Any ideas on your air filter setup? I don't like the looks of the cone everyone seems to use on these. Ideally I'd get a stock Ford filter airbox mounted on the inner fender somehow. If I was going to use a cone filter, I'd want to do something like this, a steel flange to shield the filter from turbulence. ("After" photos, 3rd pic down). Rosehillperformanceparts Hides the filter a bit also. I like this filter better than the K&N price: http://www.bcbroncos.com/store/product_ ... ts_id=2201

My T-bird upper intake manifold positions the Throttle Body farther away from the runners, out past the valve covers, and is angled, pointing towards the battery tray. This has caused me to have to lengthen the MAF wiring and revise the TPS wiring connector + lengthen the wiring here as well. I am not clear on how the TV/Kickdown cable and throttle cable should attach to that bracket that bolts to the back of the intake. Is there a return spring on the accel cable here? Can you post a pic of that area? Most/all of the injected Fords I saw with intact throttle controls had a return spring.

Any idea on the gas pedal? Years ago I saw a write up on this but lost my page of EFI swap links when my computer crashed.