90's aluminum rims on a slick?

[Toyz]

I used the factory lug nuts. They are considerably heftier (and more expensive) than most. For replacement I would probably go to my local Discount Tire; they seem to have duplicates of the factory type at decent prices. I buy lots of parts from unknown sources; lug nuts and lugs are not among them.
Aftermarket wheels often come with a disclaimer stating that torque needs to be rechecked after usage. That's probably a good policy, but I know of no one who does so. My only loose wheel problem was nearly 50 years ago, and attributable to a DA with an overly-aggressive impact wrench.

Paul

[Haus]

92 Ford E150 van wheels.

Clear coat was pealing and looked pretty bad. Hmm what to do....



Had them blasted and powder coated gun metal grey. I needed these van wheels for the offset since I'm sitting on a 79 frame. I'm still only 1/2" from the sides. I'll probably end up trimming the inside of the fender a little to give me some breathing room or order some different rims. I have all new shocks, front springs, and front and back sway bars, 3" front and 4" back drop, and rear traction bars, so I don't have a lot of body roll that would send my fender into the tires.

[Toyz]

What size are your tires? With 235/75/15 on a 77 rear end, I have about an inch clearance with the ride height looking about like yours, judging from top of wheel to fender lip distance.
Paul

[Haus]

255/70/15

[slixtyfive]

Here's my '65 from a few years ago when I had factory alum wheels from '94 Bronco on them. I also had some problems with them lossening up a couple times. I think the tires are 235-75R15. (edit - actual tire size is 275 60R15)

[1965fordf100]

Don't these wheels use a conical/tapered lug and are lug centric, not hub centric? Maybe I'm confused but if you had that type of lug and a deep enough lug loosening wouldn't happen, correct?

[slixtyfive]

Yes, they are lug centric with tapered lug nuts.

[slixtyfive]

I mis-stated the tire size - they are actually 275 60 15

[1965fordf100]

I mis-stated the tire size - they are actually <a href="tel:275 60 15">275 60 15</a>

Dang that's a big tire under there...you don't have any rubbing on a good bump on the inner fender lip? From the pictures it looks okay, but pretty close....

Thanks
Phil

[slixtyfive]

Tires were originally mounted for use on my '72 and then when I bought the 65, I put them on that. I haven't had the truck on the road for several years but I don't recall any rubbing problems.

[Toyz]

My stock height uni has 31x10.50-15, mounted on 94 Bronco ten holes, with no problems. That's about 5/16" narrower than a 275, but about 2" taller. They definitely fill the fender wells!

Paul

[1965fordf100]

With the lowered stance I'm going with I am tossing around the idea of 245/60r15, but I can't decide if that's gonna be too small...I think it should be alright...any thoughts?

[Toyz]

Kinda small diameter in my opinion; it's over 2" smaller than a 235/75/15, and better than an inch smaller diameter than a 215/75/15, which is about the smallest I've seen all around a slick!
Paul

[1965fordf100]

Does anyone have any tips on cleaning these wheels up...from the looks of the pic (I haven't received them yet), there may be some clearcoating damaged on them...what's the best way to take care of that?

Thanks for all your help and time guys!

[rickairmedic]

Well I can tell you how I did the last set not the easiest method but it worked . I started with 150 grit paper and worked through to 2000 grit ( all wet ) then hand polished with some good aluminum polish . The ones I had were pitted pretty bad you may not have to go as agressive with the starting grit if you just want to take the coating off and then polish .


Rick

[1965fordf100]

Thanks for lending your experience, Rick! I also thought a good aircraft stripper might work too?

[Toyz]

Clearcoat remover will get the remaining coating off; if the wheels are not pitted, polish em out; if pitted, see above. A good clearcoat application will keep 'em in shape for a while. The easy way; just send them to a powder-coater who will remove the clearcoat and coat them with clear powdercoat. If they're damaged beyond the clearcoat,and not repaired, it's going to be noticable, however.
Paul

[1965fordf100]

Wouldn't the aluminum need to be roughened up a bit for the powder coating to stick? If that was the case they wouldn't be as shiny? I was thinking just leave me bare aluminum and keep up on polishing, but I do know a powder coater that will do them for me if they don't have to be a rough surface

[Toyz]

Yes, they are usually media blasted to remove the clearcoat and provide a good surface for the powder, not much different than the requirements for clear-coating. The results are usually quite shiny, more so than the OEM finish, IMO. Just like clearcoat, the powder coating adds brilliance, but is much more durable than clearcoat.
Paul