5.0 EFI/HO swap questions

[randyr]

Randy, I wound up with a 70 auto shifter rod. It was a hot, humid day, I kept forgetting various tools under car hoods and having to back track and look for them, plus I forgot my shopping list. At least the girl at the checkout took pity on a old guy, she priced everything dirt cheap.


The first two 73-79's didn't have anything I could use. When I found a 70 F100 with a 302 and automatic I grabbed what I thought I could use and hit the road. Can't recall seeing many bumpsides with a factory auto column, but I think this will get me started. May have to shorten or lengthen the rod, and likely throw in a bend or two. It has a fixed end and about a 3-4" threaded end with a swivel connection on it. Wasn't able to get the plastic/rubber bushing out of the trans shifter arm, but figure the HELP section at the parts store should have that. If I get it fabbed up I'll take some photos.My truck is a factory cruiseomatic with column shift. I'm hoping I can fab some kind of adapter onto the trans-shift lever of the AOD that will work. Not sure how much I can do about it until the trans is actually in the truck.

Any ideas on your air filter setup? I don't like the looks of the cone everyone seems to use on these. Ideally I'd get a stock Ford filter airbox mounted on the inner fender somehow. If I was going to use a cone filter, I'd want to do something like this, a steel flange to shield the filter from turbulence. ("After" photos, 3rd pic down). Rosehillperformanceparts Hides the filter a bit also. I like this filter better than the K&N price: http://www.bcbroncos.com/store/product_ ... ts_id=2201
Not sure what I'm going to do with this yet. I got the Mustang box, etc. from the donor. I don't dislike the cone thing as much as you but still not sure what I'm going to do here yet.

My T-bird upper intake manifold positions the Throttle Body farther away from the runners, out past the valve covers, and is angled, pointing towards the battery tray. This has caused me to have to lengthen the MAF wiring and revise the TPS wiring connector + lengthen the wiring here as well. I am not clear on how the TV/Kickdown cable and throttle cable should attach to that bracket that bolts to the back of the intake. Is there a return spring on the accel cable here? Can you post a pic of that area? Most/all of the injected Fords I saw with intact throttle controls had a return spring.
not sure but maybe you'll see something helpful in this video. On mine, which is all '92 Mustang GT, there is a return spring built into the cable of both the throttle and TV. They both snap onto the bell crank of the throttle body. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6L3hNzxdiYw

Any idea on the gas pedal? Years ago I saw a write up on this but lost my page of EFI swap links when my computer crashed.

I got the Mustang pedal & cable from the donor but it doesn't look that much differnt than the '66 on the pedal end. If I can't adapt the Mustang cable to work with my '66 pedal (which I think I can make it work) then I'll try to install the Mustang pedal.

[dotcentral]

Was just reading on some write ups to make sure and install the Barometric Pressure sensor. I will have to look that up, not sure what it is.

Boy, those Fox gas pedals are skinny! Might try a F150 or something with a bit more width.

[PFM-64f100]

This is how Phil did his air box for his slick runing the 5.0. Just another option.

[Fanatic]

Phil's truck has the pick-up intake manifold and therefore is WAY different than the others. It has a dual throttle body and aims sorta forward. I also am running a truck 5.0 and built a custom intake.

[dotcentral]

I am probably going to try and get the T-Bird air box to work. I am going to look for either a long flex hose or someway to splice on an additional length of line to get it where I want it. Or just take the easy way and mount a cone filter.

I finally got an EGR block off plate, but haven't figure out the right size bolts to mount it.

Got my harness mostly worked out, had to lengthen 3 connector tails (T-Bird vs Mustang placements of stuff)

Still need to get the right O2 sensors. The new looking T-Bird ones have the plastic nubs for the "push & Twist" install connections clocked opposite of mustang ones. Hate laying out $100+ for a new pair but guess it has to be done.

Got hosed by RJM on the harness, I told them I wanted A/C, but they sent me the universal one, cheaper but no a/c hookup and a few other differences. So a freind is going to help me, apparently I need to splice into Pin 10 for thast one. RJM also didn't ship a connector from their harness to the old body harness plug (near the valve cover on driver side). I bet they won't send me one either, bought the kit 3 years ago so they'll claim I lost it.

Still got to plug the thermactor ports in the heads. snug up hard fuel lines, run flex fuel lines to fuel rail, mount alternator, decide if I do under dash a/c (have two old Sears units, if either is any good) or full blown vintage A/C indash kit).

I saw a mustang blog where some claimed they mounted their A/C compressor in the smog pump position of the 5.0 cast aluminum alternator/smog pump mounting bracket. They did admit to switching to a different type comp, and a few small mods. here is a link, see October 10 & 18, 2011 entries: http://mustangefiswap.blogspot.com/ Has me wondering.

And patch bed floor, cut hole for filler, graft in fill door, button up the front of truck, and "Enjoy"

[Harper]

Got hosed by RJM on the harness, I told them I wanted A/C, but they sent me the universal one, cheaper but no a/c hookup and a few other differences. So a freind is going to help me, apparently I need to splice into Pin 10 for thast one. RJM also didn't ship a connector from their harness to the old body harness plug (near the valve cover on driver side). I bet they won't send me one either, bought the kit 3 years ago so they'll claim I lost it.

I would explain to them that you ordered it and that you need the plug, that your working on a project. They understand "projects" as their business is Supported from all of "our Projects"
good luck, I may have some of the same issues when I get mine installed, same deal RJM harness over 3 years ago, origionally for a 1970 bronco, however it will be utilized on my 1965 EFI 302 project "Blue Thunder"

[dotcentral]

Planning on hitting the salvage yard tomorrow for a 73-79 auto column shifter linkage,

Look forward to seeing what you come up with on this one because I need to do something similar. I would like to keep the column shift but don't want pull the shift lever out of the trans. I've studied the process a little but not sure what I'm going to do yet.

Going to still require some fab work. I found a straight shift rod in a '70 XLT, V8 auto and the 3 speed manual rod from my 66, which has a couple bends. Both are too short as is by 3-4". The bent rod looks like the best fit, I think I will add about 6" to the middle, and if need be a few more bends to the rod. Easier to thread more of the rod with a die than to keep welding on more pieces - I think.

[dotcentral]

Alternator: My RJM harness has a 1 wire alternator hookup. My 1991 T-bird donor has the older style alt. Do I need to bite the bullet and buy a 1 wire, or is there an easy fix? Mounting the alt. I guess I will use the old style Ford mount, since I am not using the smog pump. Has anyone modified the Ford cast aluminum Alt/Smog mount to look halfway decent?

Found this link the other day: http://www.rjminjectiontech.com/collect ... or-harness

Looks like that would plug into the stock T-Bird alternator. Probably ought to check the alternator first. Wonder why RJM doesn't include this on the harness to start with? Unless maybe there are just to many variables with all the different alt swaps, upgrades, etc. to get right?

With some help I finally got the cast aluminum alternator/smog pump mounting figured out. Will try to mount an A/C compressor where the smob pump went.

[randyr]

Alternator: My RJM harness has a 1 wire alternator hookup. My 1991 T-bird donor has the older style alt. Do I need to bite the bullet and buy a 1 wire, or is there an easy fix? Mounting the alt. I guess I will use the old style Ford mount, since I am not using the smog pump. Has anyone modified the Ford cast aluminum Alt/Smog mount to look halfway decent?

Found this link the other day: http://www.rjminjectiontech.com/collect ... or-harness

Looks like that would plug into the stock T-Bird alternator. Probably ought to check the alternator first. Wonder why RJM doesn't include this on the harness to start with? Unless maybe there are just to many variables with all the different alt swaps, upgrades, etc. to get right?

With some help I finally got the cast aluminum alternator/smog pump mounting figured out. Will try to mount an A/C compressor where the smob pump went.

I spoke to an RJM tech when I was trying to determine if I was going to try to buy their harness or adapt my OEM Mustang harness. Decided I couldn't afford it but he recommend the "Universal harness" instead of the "Classic" for my truck because it has a little more length in certain areas, etc. Anyway, My '92 mustang engine came with a 2G alternator. The tech said they didn't support that one, that I should get a 3G. I picked one up at Pickyourpart from a '95 Mustang with the complete wiring pigtail. Fits the bracket perfectly. It will be a while before I actually have it hooked up....

[dotcentral]

Got hosed by RJM on the harness, I told them I wanted A/C, but they sent me the universal one, cheaper but no a/c hookup and a few other differences. So a friend is going to help me, apparently I need to splice into Pin 10 for that one. RJM also didn't ship a connector from their harness to the old body harness plug (near the valve cover on driver side). I bet they won't send me one either, bought the kit 3 years ago so they'll claim I lost it.

I would explain to them that you ordered it and that you need the plug, that your working on a project. They understand "projects" as their business is Supported from all of "our Projects"
good luck, I may have some of the same issues when I get mine installed, same deal RJM harness over 3 years ago, origionally for a 1970 bronco, however it will be utilized on my 1965 EFI 302 project "Blue Thunder"

Your right, I should give them a chance first. They probably get all sorts of amateurs like me asking dumb questions and silly complaints. But stuff like this for some of us is a big deal, I know I mentioned wanting a/c and the guy at RJM told me he was going to sell me the harness I needed. Anyway, if it all works I will be happy.

[dotcentral]

I spoke to an RJM tech when I was trying to determine if I was going to try to buy their harness or adapt my OEM Mustang harness. Decided I couldn't afford it but he recommend the "Universal harness" instead of the "Classic" for my truck because it has a little more length in certain areas, etc.

I have had to lengthen my harness to fit the T-Bird layout at the TPS, the CTS, and seems like there was one more, maybe Idle Air. It was all on the pass side of the engine. Plus I didn't get sending units for my gauges with the universal harness and taking a second look at the instructions a body harness plug is not supplied. Do I not need those connections? Maybe I don't. I'll have to have a buddy help me with this, I may be worrying over nothing. Maybe the 3 year time period has left me confused with what I got vs what I thought I was getting.

Anyway, My '92 mustang engine came with a 2G alternator. The tech said they didn't support that one, that I should get a 3G. I picked one up at Pickyourpart from a '95 Mustang with the complete wiring pigtail. Fits the bracket perfectly. It will be a while before I actually have it hooked up....

I have something like 4 alternators laying around, one brand new that for some reason has been sitting in a box for years. I'd hate to buy another, but maybe the thing to do. I'll have to do some research on these things.

[randyr]

I have something like 4 alternators laying around, one brand new that for some reason has been sitting in a box for years. I'd hate to buy another, but maybe the thing to do. I'll have to do some research on these things.

Here ya go.....it's cheaper than another altenator... http://www.rjminjectiontech.com/collect ... or-harness


I just realized I miss read your post. I thought you said, "I have something like 4G alternator laying around.."

Obviously, you won't be needing the 4G pigtail from rjm.......sorry...

[dotcentral]

I think my donor '91 T-Bird alternator is 95 amp, unless it was replaced with something else or a parts store rebuilt one. I think that should be a 1G alternator. I need to pull some numbers see what's what I have. Very similar looking though to the ones from the 60's & 70's in looks, other than the ribbed pulley.

[dotcentral]

Thanks for the intake setup ideas. Didn't get anything done Friday. My 1 hour chore took about 4 hours. Hopefully Monday or Tuesday I can get some real progress in.

EDIT: I bought the rest of a 91 Tbird airbox. the yard only had the V6 cars, can't imagine it would be different though, right? Let's hope.
Also going to play with the a/c mount idea mentioned above. I emailed the mustang guy (Brad) EDIT: Got a great pic from the mustang guy that fills in the blanks for me.

I have ran 3/8" rigid line for fuel supply and return up to around the firewall. Not sure if I want to use braided hose (I hate the way that stuff looks) or maybe some rated plastic fuel line (even uglier) to connect to the fuel rails. Maybe I'll try the black braided stuff.

More Questions

1. Anyone got pics of heater hose and a/c hose routing? Starting to think I will keep the stock heater and do an underdash a/c, if I can mock up a decent mount in the cab for a hang down unit and one of my underdash units will hold air.

2. Fuel accumulator: anyone running one? Seen it mentioned on a couple posts I found while google searching "stuff".

3. TV (kickdown) cable, at TBI mounting end. Is this supposed to be rigid? Mine is broken where the plastic runs under the black rubber sheathing. Seems to slide fine though. I am guessing many used cables would have the same issue so it would be either buy new or an aftermarket cable. Opinions?

I need to get Picasa I guess so I can post some photos. I have tried to sign up for photobucket but never hear back from them on account authorization.

[dotcentral]

Have not been able to get my modified Ford shift rod to work right. I have lengthened it, bent it to get the rod more or less parallel to the ground where it attaches to the trans, even added a Heim joint, but I have an extremely stiff shift movement at the auto column. The act of moving the shifter, when I can get it to move, tends to want to shift two gears at the trans for each position I move at the column shifter. Moving from Park to Reverse at column, goes from Park past Reverse into Neutral @ trans.

Guess I'll have to get a lokar linkage kit. Anyone had any luck with these? Am I looking at more of the same problems? I really want to keep my column shifter. I know a floor shifter would eliminate a lot of headaches, but on this truck really want to use a column shifter.

[dotcentral]

Are 63's a cable accelerator or metal linkage type accel? Thinking if that 63 is still at the pull a part might solve my problems with the gas pedal and accel cable in my '71.

[Harper]

i have no idea, however I am very interested in what you find out to resolve your issue. Even though mine will be a 5-speed (mid 90's truck trans) in the floor. keep us posted. and good luck

[ICEMAN6166]

Are 63's a cable accelerator or metal linkage type accel? Thinking if that 63 is still at the pull a part might solve my problems with the gas pedal and accel cable in my '71.

61-64 used metal rod linkage,
65/66 were the only ones using the cable, then 67 went back to metal rod which stayed until the 80s when cables returned again

[randyr]

Have not been able to get my modified Ford shift rod to work right. I have lengthened it, bent it to get the rod more or less parallel to the ground where it attaches to the trans, even added a Heim joint, but I have an extremely stiff shift movement at the auto column. The act of moving the shifter, when I can get it to move, tends to want to shift two gears at the trans for each position I move at the column shifter. Moving from Park to Reverse at column, goes from Park past Reverse into Neutral @ trans.

Guess I'll have to get a lokar linkage kit. Anyone had any luck with these? Am I looking at more of the same problems? I really want to keep my column shifter. I know a floor shifter would eliminate a lot of headaches, but on this truck really want to use a column shifter.

The Lokar kit may or may not resolve your issues. http://lokar.com/product-pgs/column-shi ... tlink.html It probably won't be a "bolt-on" fix. I spoke to one of their techs a few weeks ago. The kit is designed to work mostly with GM column. He said it could probably be adapted to work with the Ford column, too. If you decide to buy it, google it and find a good price. I haven't had a chance to experiment with mine yet so I don't have any suggestions. Sorry.

[dotcentral]

The Lokar kit may or may not resolve your issues. http://lokar.com/product-pgs/column-shi ... tlink.html It probably won't be a "bolt-on" fix. I spoke to one of their techs a few weeks ago. The kit is designed to work mostly with GM column. He said it could probably be adapted to work with the Ford column, too. If you decide to buy it, google it and find a good price. I haven't had a chance to experiment with mine yet so I don't have any suggestions. Sorry.

Thanks for the info Randy. I was going to call Lokar as I had wondered about the "GM column" statement in their ad. My friend helping me is no stranger to fabbing stuff, he had a car in an issue of street rodder earlier this year. but we haven't been able to get the Ford linkage to work. Hate to spend the bucks for the Lokar linkage to butcher it up and have it not work as well. May be easier to do a Lokar or similar floor shift. Or buy an aftermarket ($$$) or a decent looking used GM column, but from what vehicle? Man what a pain in the butt!