5.0 EFI/HO swap questions

[dotcentral]

After some research at the pull-a-part, found that 90's era town cars have a firewall with a similar layout to 65-66 and 67-72 trucks. Flat and relatively steep. A 13mm deepwell socket is needed to remove the two mounting bolts.

This pedal is going into my 71. I am reusing the lower right bolt hole from the original gas pedal. Had to drill one new hole for the town car pedal. There was a factory dimple right where the accel cable wants to come in to match the slot in the town car pedal, so drilled that out. I had outlined in tape the location of the stock pedal and the town car pedal lines up very close to the same place. EDIT: well, that was a mistake, that hole I drilled was about 1.5" off. But a factory looking hole was in just the right place. Got it all mounted up thursday and looks like it will work well. Plenty of pedal travel.

I bought a used mustang accel cable, not sure how to get the big slotted washer-looking clamp off the cable end to fish it through the firewall and re-attach the clamp. EDIT: Not sure if I need that thing, I used two self-tapping bolts at the firewall side and the accel cable is secure.

[dotcentral]

5.0 swap people. Where and how did you mount the coil? I'd like to use the stock Ford coil. At least for now.

Right now I guess I am thinking about somewhere on the firewall, just not sure where and how. Other options? pics, ideas, welcome.

[randyr]

5.0 swap people. Where and how did you mount the coil? I'd like to use the stock Ford coil. At least for now.

Right now I guess I am thinking about somewhere on the firewall, just not sure where and how. Other options? pics, ideas, welcome.

I haven't mounted mine yet but the Mustang donor had it mounted on the driverside fender well. I've also seen the coil mounted to the AC bracket or somewhere near there on the engine.

[dotcentral]

Going to go with a cone filter. built a mounting bracket to mount the MAF. Still got to figure out an alternator hookup.

Spent yesterday patching the bed where the bed mount bolts rusted out the bed floor and bed cross members. Going to rust teat & paint the underside today.

Probably loosing my work space on Thursday, so got to find a place to finish it up.

One of these days I'll post some pics.

[bmcgc]

I would get a Mustang upper intake, it flows better and they are dirt cheap.

EFI is a big job, if I ever go 5.0/5.8 Im going with a carb, unless I find a Lightening engine.

I hope I never find a Lightening engine.

[dotcentral]

I haven't mounted mine yet but the Mustang donor had it mounted on the driverside fender well. I've also seen the coil mounted to the AC bracket or somewhere near there on the engine.

I found that the power steering bracket had mounting holes for the coil.

Realized yesterday I need a barometric pressure sensor. Those things are pricey new. may try pull a part for that one.

[randyr]

I haven't mounted mine yet but the Mustang donor had it mounted on the driverside fender well. I've also seen the coil mounted to the AC bracket or somewhere near there on the engine.

I found that the power steering bracket had mounting holes for the coil.

Realized yesterday I need a barometric pressure sensor. Those things are pricey new. may try pull a part for that one.

Hey that's cool about the coil mount. I'll see if my PS bracket has that. I got the BP sensor off of my donor car.

[dotcentral]

Hey that's cool about the coil mount. I'll see if my PS bracket has that. I got the BP sensor off of my donor car.

Yeah, should take a real short plug wire. I am going to try and cut one down off a set of low mileage plug wires I have laying around.

[dotcentral]

3. TV (kickdown) cable, at TBI mounting end. Is this supposed to be rigid? Mine is broken where the plastic runs under the black rubber sheathing. Seems to slide fine though. I am guessing many used cables would have the same issue so it would be either buy new or an aftermarket cable. Opinions?

Remembered my wife has a Photobucket account. I'll post a pic of what I'm talking about above.

[dotcentral]

Bronco II gas tank. Has the supply line ran, wired the fuel pumps, the ground, just need to do the sender for the gas gauge and finish the return line & the bed can go back on.

[dotcentral]

Have the bed installed, at least temporarily. I need to figure out the gas filler now. I have a Bronco II filler tube. The larger (2"+) rubber vent tube or vent line looks to be too short to reach the filler door where it needs to go on the outside of the bed wall. The hard plastic fill line (1") should reach I think.

I could probably replace the rubber vent line with something like a flex radiator hose. All it is doing is venting, so I am thinking it should last a while. the hard fill Looks like it will extend about 1-2" into the tank. Is that enough? Do I needto find a longer fill tube? If not that, what could I make it out of that will hold up? Maybe a small diameter pipe, like a small exhaust pipe, bent to fit?

Thanks.

[Harper]

get a second fill tube and cut a piece off it and weld it to the fill tube you are wanting to use

[dotcentral]

get a second fill tube and cut a piece off it and weld it to the fill tube you are wanting to use

It is plastic.

[dotcentral]

Coming to the end I think. Hopefully will get to fire it up Friday or this weekend.

1. I just noticed the RJM instructions say to ground the ECU. How have any of you accomplished this? One end should be simple enough, I figure I will ground it to a bare spot under the dash. But how did you attach a ground wire to the ECU? Or is it attached to the bolt the holds the cable to the ECU female plug end?

2. Relay Block and Fuse Block. I installed these on the inner fender. Looking again at the instructions looks like RJM is showing these inside the vehicle. EDIT: Moved to inside cab, up high on pass side kick panel.

3. Coil wire routing. I don't have near enough wire to run the coil wire along the firewall, along the inner fender, then over to the power steering pump bracket where the coil is mounted. I ran it along the intake and to the coil. Any pitfalls to the way I routed it?

4. Speedometer hookup with Vehicle speed sensor. Does this work with the old style speedo cables that came on our trucks? If not, what speedometer cable do I need to pick up? I am using a F500 type gauge cluster with F500 spedometer if that matters.

5. Thermostat. which one, 180? 195? Will go with whatever is in it for now I guess.

6. Trans Fluid. I have some DexronIII/Mercon on hand. Some say to use "straight" Mercon V, avoid the combo stuff. Others say the Dexron/Mercon stuff is fine. Comments? Experiences with the DexronIII/Mercon ATF?

7. Heater hose routing. Using the T-Bird stock heater lines that run along the passenger side valve cover, I don't line up well with the heater core lines. Do I need to weld on elbows to one or the other, or both? Is there a plastic or molded heater line that will work?
EDIT: I found an article on a similar swap in a Ford HP secrets type book. They showed the heater tubes modifed so one tube was complete removed, the one coming out of the block cut down to about a 6" length. Comments on this? It makes sense to me, would make it easier to route a line into the heater core. And I have no idea what the second tube would be used for anyway. Probably need to take a good look at my water pump and plan out the routing of the return line.
EDIT #2: I modified the heater tubes as described above. Combined with the left facing intake I do have a lot going on here. Just need to finish up the coolant return line and add coolant. Hope to start it up soon.

[Toyz]

The case will ground if screwed to metal. Don't know about the BII's, but the Rangers' tube extends about the same distance into tank, and I would not recommend any non-fuel hose for such use.
Paul

[Harper]

It is plastic

oops! i havent worked on very many bronco II's sorry!

I just noticed the RJM instructions say to ground the ECU. How have any of you accomplished this?

on a stock 1986 thru 1992 mustang the ECU is grounded with the green screw that bolts the ECU to the inner kick panel. As a side note, back in the day when we had our shop a customer came to us with a 95 convertible mustang with engine issues...would run for a few mins, cut off, not crank back, sometimes it would run for over an hour etc...same, then die, not start back up etc... as it turns out the ECU ground screw was stripped out (still in its origional hole) so it seemed to be grounded but would loose ground and cause it to go in to "limp home mode" running VERY RICH...so rich in fact that it washed down the cylinder walls, and caused the engine to have to be rebuilt.
we went around to EVERY ground point on the harness and reground each of them, after that and an engine rebuild it ran great... just a FYI so make sure you have all of your grounds hooked up and grounded well.

[dotcentral]

The case will ground if screwed to metal.

I mounted the ECU with aluminum "post" screws. One end is a hollow aluminum internally threaded tube with a nail head like flange. Opposite side is a bolt with a very flat head. I used these to mounted the ECU to the underside of the dash as I intend to put a dash pad on which would cover the screw heads. I used the Ford stock mount, which I think is thin steel. I think I put a small section foam pad between the ECU and underside of dash to prevent rubbing, but tried to keep it small as I know the ECU needs to stay cool.

I may want to rethink my mounting system, but I have alread cut a hole in the firewall so prefer not to move the ECU too much.

[Harper]

if you dont mind post a picture of your final mounting point, just to give me ideas where to put mine

[dotcentral]

on a stock 1986 thru 1992 mustang the ECU is grounded with the green screw that bolts the ECU to the inner kick panel. As a side note, back in the day when we had our shop a customer came to us with a 95 convertible mustang with engine issues...would run for a few mins, cut off, not crank back, sometimes it would run for over an hour etc...same, then die, not start back up etc... as it turns out the ECU ground screw was stripped out (still in its origional hole) so it seemed to be grounded but would loose ground and cause it to go in to "limp home mode" running VERY RICH...so rich in fact that it washed down the cylinder walls, and caused the engine to have to be rebuilt.
we went around to EVERY ground point on the harness and reground each of them, after that and an engine rebuild it ran great... just a FYI so make sure you have all of your grounds hooked up and grounded well.

I will have to call RJM. I can't find it in the instructions anywhere to ground the case. They do make a big deal about attaching their ground to the firewall as the 1st connection. So, maybe that is how RJM grounds the ECU.

[PFM-64f100]

My thoughts on the following questions you had.

1. I just noticed the RJM instructions say to ground the ECU. How have any of you accomplished this? One end should be simple enough, I figure I will ground it to a bare spot under the dash. But how did you attach a ground wire to the ECU? Or is it attached to the bolt the holds the cable to the ECU female plug end?

Since reading the threads here about grounding the EEC my plan is to attach a ground wire to one of the computer's screws. I have not seen much on having to ground the EEC but it won't hurt to ground it.

4. Speedometer hookup with Vehicle speed sensor. Does this work with the old style speedo cables that came on our trucks? If not, what speedometer cable do I need to pick up? I am using a F500 type gauge cluster with F500 spedometer if that matters.

Look at the 88/89 mustangs which still used a mechincal speedo I know others used it as well. From what I have heard the white plug can come out of the vss then install the speed cable. I've never done it but someone somewhere told me that.

5. Thermostat. which one, 180? 195? Will go with whatever is in it for now I guess.

195 is factory and the computer tables are expecting that temp for normal temps.