FIRST TIME I EVER DID BODY WORK, PLEASE TAKE A LOOK!!!
FIRST TIME I EVER DID BODY WORK, PLEASE TAKE A LOOK!!!
Here is a pic of the wonderful rotted metal I had to deal with all the way around the front and both sides of the roof where it curves to the drip rail.
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Another pic of the nasty stuff that had to come out!
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Had to cut all the metal one side at a time.
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Had to fab some metal to weld in the holes.
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Ground down all the welds and started to lay Evercoat Kitty Hair for some strength and now starting to shape. I had one huge dent in passenger side along the body line on the curve that I had to work out. You can kind of see it here in my original pic of the truck, looks like a fist size dent about mid way down the side above the door!
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Layed down some glass and sanding has begun and this is where I am at for now, I have to rebuild the body line in some spots, but overall it has been alot of fun learning something new! I will submit another pic when I get it in primer. Also a friend has helped me everystep of the way and he is not a pro, but knows alot more than me, so I am taking what I can get. He is a mopar man though, and said he never liked Fords but he is impressed with the 64 F-100! Maybe I'll covert him yet!!
[albumimg]2494[/albumimg]
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Thanks all that looked!
[albumimg]2490[/albumimg]
Another pic of the nasty stuff that had to come out!
[albumimg]2492[/albumimg]
Had to cut all the metal one side at a time.
[albumimg]2491[/albumimg]
Had to fab some metal to weld in the holes.
[albumimg]2493[/albumimg]
Ground down all the welds and started to lay Evercoat Kitty Hair for some strength and now starting to shape. I had one huge dent in passenger side along the body line on the curve that I had to work out. You can kind of see it here in my original pic of the truck, looks like a fist size dent about mid way down the side above the door!
[albumimg]2144[/albumimg]
Layed down some glass and sanding has begun and this is where I am at for now, I have to rebuild the body line in some spots, but overall it has been alot of fun learning something new! I will submit another pic when I get it in primer. Also a friend has helped me everystep of the way and he is not a pro, but knows alot more than me, so I am taking what I can get. He is a mopar man though, and said he never liked Fords but he is impressed with the 64 F-100! Maybe I'll covert him yet!!
[albumimg]2494[/albumimg]
[albumimg]2495[/albumimg]
Thanks all that looked!
- Uncle Skip
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- Location: Pearland, Texas

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shawns fords
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- Location: Foxfield Colorado
- Contact:
- Johnny Canuck
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- Joined: April 9, 2006, 11:14 pm
- Location: Edmonton, Alberta.

stellj,
When you are ready to prime look at Sherwin Williams RS3401 primer.
It is a high build direct to metal epoxy primer. It will fill small dimples if you apply it heavy enough to where you can block it out smooth. I used it on mine and it is amazing how much it fills.

I started to block out some on the door and hood just to see how it does.
This is my first attempt at body work. I had to replace panels in corners, floor boards, shrink the roof to tighten it up and fill all holes.
kstones63
When you are ready to prime look at Sherwin Williams RS3401 primer.
It is a high build direct to metal epoxy primer. It will fill small dimples if you apply it heavy enough to where you can block it out smooth. I used it on mine and it is amazing how much it fills.

I started to block out some on the door and hood just to see how it does.
This is my first attempt at body work. I had to replace panels in corners, floor boards, shrink the roof to tighten it up and fill all holes.
kstones63
- DV65CustomCab
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- Location: Elizabethtown, PA

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shawns fords
- Posts: 1111
- Joined: March 31, 2007, 11:34 am
- Location: Foxfield Colorado
- Contact:
Kstone, that primer looks familiar, ive been using something called featherfill,I cant remember who makes it, I buy my products from a buddy who works for a distributor of HOK, the featherfill does the same thing as the filler primer you use, but I havent been spraying it on heavy enough, so far I only put it on the roof, now im getting anxious to get back out there and work on it again.
Did you shrink your roof with heat and dry ice? I have been using a micro torch to shrink out small dents (hail damage) on another vehicle, it has worked well for some areas but not all
Did you shrink your roof with heat and dry ice? I have been using a micro torch to shrink out small dents (hail damage) on another vehicle, it has worked well for some areas but not all
Those look real nice!
1964 F 100 - I am going to do "something" with it.......
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942
1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD
~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............
Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942
1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD
~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............
Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
Great looking repair!
I have to do the same repair to both my trucks, they have some bubbling under the paint & small holes in the same area. I'm not really looking forward to it.
On the metal shrinking topic, here's a great site with lots of threads on the matter (& any other metal matter, for that matter
). http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=167 Those guys heavily recommend using a shrinking disc. I'd like to get one & try it out one day. 
I have to do the same repair to both my trucks, they have some bubbling under the paint & small holes in the same area. I'm not really looking forward to it.
On the metal shrinking topic, here's a great site with lots of threads on the matter (& any other metal matter, for that matter
My "Slickitis" affliction began here...

66 F100 CC/65 F100 CC/66 F250 CC
If it starts to rain, they'll tax the splash.
If you want to fish, they'll tax the bass.
If you plant a yard, they'll tax the grass.
If you don't play nice, they'll fine your *$#!

66 F100 CC/65 F100 CC/66 F250 CC
If it starts to rain, they'll tax the splash.
If you want to fish, they'll tax the bass.
If you plant a yard, they'll tax the grass.
If you don't play nice, they'll fine your *$#!
Shawn-
Featherfill is made by Evercoat - great brand for fillers too. But you are using their epoxy primer/sealer. Their epoxy-surfacer or high-build primer is called Slicksand (which is closer comparison to Sherwin Williams RS3401).
Be careful not to lay on the Featherfill too thick if you're trying to get 'build' out of it.
Featherfill is made by Evercoat - great brand for fillers too. But you are using their epoxy primer/sealer. Their epoxy-surfacer or high-build primer is called Slicksand (which is closer comparison to Sherwin Williams RS3401).
Be careful not to lay on the Featherfill too thick if you're trying to get 'build' out of it.
"If you don't want to stand behind our Troops, feel free to stand in front of them."
1964 Ford F100
1967 US Army M416
1964 Ford F100
1967 US Army M416
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shawns fords
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truckerdaddy66
- Posts: 114
- Joined: January 22, 2007, 9:14 am
- Location: new caney, tx.
Nice work, mine has roof rot to.I'm doing same thing, but not as bad.What kind of tool did you use to cut rusty stuff out with,and did you use mig or a torch to weld it.I guess fords just rust there for some reason, good luck on the bondo work,just remember its a 100 times better than it was!
Fred, New Caney ,Tx.
Fred, New Caney ,Tx.
I just used a 5 inch cutting disk to cut out the bad stuff, I plan on using primer called 2K, it seemed to work pretty good on the Cuda my buddy is doing. I did not use any shrink disks, not familiar with it and dont want to mess up anything. Thanks again all that replied!
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MY F.O.R.D. (FOUND ON ROAD DEAD)
BUT SHE'S COMING BACK TO LIFE BEAUTIFULLY!
MY F.O.R.D. (FOUND ON ROAD DEAD)
BUT SHE'S COMING BACK TO LIFE BEAUTIFULLY!
I purchased a stud welder to pull the dents out and it also had a shrinking tip with it. The roof had the oil can affect so it it took about 200 small shrinks with this tip to get the roof to tighten up. I would heat it with the tip for about 2 seconds and then put a damp rag on it to cool it and shrink the metal.
I plan to finish the rest of the body work now, then block out the primer with 320 grit and then prime one more time before blocking with 600 and then paint. I still have a few places by the doors that need to be welded to get the door gaps looking right.
Hopefully it will cool off in Phoenx in September so I can get back to work on this truck.
Spray that primer on heavier and sand it out. A body man I know reccomended this product as he uses it on all his custom cars that he does.
Kevin
kstones63
I plan to finish the rest of the body work now, then block out the primer with 320 grit and then prime one more time before blocking with 600 and then paint. I still have a few places by the doors that need to be welded to get the door gaps looking right.
Hopefully it will cool off in Phoenx in September so I can get back to work on this truck.
Spray that primer on heavier and sand it out. A body man I know reccomended this product as he uses it on all his custom cars that he does.
Kevin
kstones63
- Johnny Canuck
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- Joined: April 9, 2006, 11:14 pm
- Location: Edmonton, Alberta.



