61-64 F100 heater core replaced today for $28

[64f100sixcylinder]

As anyone who has a leaky heater core on their 61-64 F100 knows, these cores are simply not available...anywhere. That leaves us with a couple of expensive options, radiator shop recore, and NOS. I went and measured my leaky core then started looking on ebay for copper/brass ford heater cores, but most sellers only list the part numbers, but the Spectra website has the dimensions when you enter a part number or search by vehicle. I found a copper/brass Econoline core on ebay that was really close to the original size, but of course the tubes are wrong, but they in the right spot on the core. So I ordered the core on ebay for about $28 with shipping, and figured worst case scenario I'd only waste that much and some time trying to make it work.

The core sizes are close enough, the tubes in the right spot, just need to remove the bracket and swap the tubes

Here's the Four Seasons part number

[64f100sixcylinder]

Let's start disassembling the 50 year old core. I first removed the mounting bracket that is soldered on.

The new core is a little shorter

Test fitting the bracket, it'll work

I removed the lower tank from the old core, pretty nasty inside

[64f100sixcylinder]

Lower tank removed from the old core. I was going to just transplant the old tank on the new core, but it was about 1/8" shorter, and more importantly the condition of it was poor, and I wasn't sure if I'd be able to get a good solder seal.


I decide to just transfer the old tubes onto the new core

[foodstick]

Now this was an interesting project.. it almost looks like you MIGHT be able to run a flexible hose off of the new core and to the hook up.. Either way, great post

[64f100sixcylinder]

The original core tubes are crimped and soldered so cutting them is the only option for removal.

After cutting the tubes off I had to grind the crimped area to the correct diameter so I could push it in and solder it. The tubes fit good but are going to be about 3/8" closer to the core, more on that later.

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I soldered the mounting bracket on after bending the upper flange until it made contact with the core. Pretty much done, before I reinstalled it, I filled a bucket with water and ran low pressure air through it, no bubbles. I sprayed some black paint on it and put it back in the truck

Here is where the tubes being inset 3/8" deeper into the core comes into play. The core is now slightly angled. The tubes are not able to be bent to compensate, so this is how mine is now mounted, the mount flange is a tight fit and won't rattle. I may drill new holes, but probably not.

After the install I fired up the old 223 and let it run for about 20 minutes, I was pleasantly surprised to have heat AND no antifreeze on the passenger side floor.
Total cost was $28 and about 2 hours of work. If I had to do it again I would probably see if a radiator shop would bend up new tubes so it fit perfect, but that would probably put the total cost over my $28 budget.

[64f100sixcylinder]

Anyone wondering, I used a MAP gas torch, and while I do have moderate experience soldering plumbing pipes, I am not a plumber. If you can't solder and want to try this, find a friend who can solder.

[64f100sixcylinder]

Now this was an interesting project.. it almost looks like you MIGHT be able to run a flexible hose off of the new core and to the hook up.. Either way, great post

I did think of that, but I don't think they would make the bend without kinking, you'd probably have to do a loop. Also the firewall would probably cut the hoses over time without a grommet of some sort. Another idea was to use copper plumbing and fittings to make new tubes, not sure if they make a direct fit size though.

[olliesshop]

Great post! I'm going to have to fix or replace my heater core on my '61 too. I remember when I took the truck home from Indiana to Michigan in 1980, from my Grandpa's farm, it was very cold and no heat for the long drive. So being 18 at the time, with no money, I took the core out and gradually forced more and more water through to get the rust out that was plugging it. I took out a bunch of rust and it's worked fine since. Although, with the restoration and all, I want it to be like new again.

This is what the truck looked like when I first inherited it from my Grandpa. A well used 32k mile farm truck.



Thanks

[bird55]

Great post! When I redid my heater box a couple a years ago I took the core to an old shop and he said it was fine-so i was fortunate to just be able to clean up and reinstall. Hopefully it will keep going. Used the truck this morning and the heater was still going strong.

Not much worse than that telltale smell of a leak under the mat or carpet!

[64f100sixcylinder]

Here is the ebay link for the heater core I purchased if anyone else wants to get one, the copper/brass ones are getting harder to find, seems to be all aluminum at the parts stores

http://www.ebay.com/itm/380628618278?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT

[ICEMAN6166]

this should be in hints and tricks

cores use 5\8" heater hose
you can buy K copper on the roll in that dimension
being soft it bends easily although im not sure how tight it can be bent without a proper bending tool.
the one downside is there would not be the flare on the hose end but i had no trouble with leakage when i made the tubes to heat the cliiford manifold on my wifes old truck.