Bendix Power steering manifold thingy question

Phil · Post by **Phil** » September 7, 2007, 7:16 pm

My 62 truck has a power assist system that is based on the same leaky junk on the Torino.

The truck has a ton of slop where the pitman bolts to the hydraulic manifold. Same point the torino box mounts.

Ive been talking to my mechanic and he says it is adjustible to take some of that slop out of that ball socket.
I can't figure out how. Any of you cats ever messed with one.

There is a cap you can remove and it exposes a nut that I assume will add tension to the threaded shaft that goes through the whole thing.

Deal is, the ball/shaft thing slides in a telescoping sleeve inside the manifold. No idea if thats normal.
Makes me thing the ball part could be tight and this sleeve is whats moving.

The question: what does the nut,spring tensioner adjust? Fluid pressure? Is it like a paint gun's needle?

Pix:

Phil · Post by **Phil** » September 7, 2007, 7:26 pm

You'd think this would help:

http://www.stangerssite.com/CanIControlValve.html

Maybe after a few more readings...

Alan Mclennan · Post by **Alan Mclennan** » September 7, 2007, 7:48 pm

I think the IN SUMMARY said it all.you cant be to carefull when playing with the steering thingys.

.

Alan

Phil · Post by **Phil** » September 7, 2007, 7:50 pm

Further reading tells me the pitman is supposed to slop back and forth.
It activates the pressure switches.

I guess this is normal:

fmartin_gila · Post by **fmartin_gila** » September 8, 2007, 8:16 am

When you move the steering wheel, the spool moves slightly inside the outer housing to direct the fluid to the proper end of the cylinder. You have to have a certain amount of "slack" for it to do what it is designed to do.
Fred

fmartin_gila · Post by **fmartin_gila** » September 8, 2007, 8:44 am

I didn't really go deep enough in the last post. I've only been into one of them, and that was back in the early 70s so things are not totally clear, also, it was on a F 700, so was slightly different, but IIRC if you just turned the end slug in to reduce movement, it would put more pressure on the centering spring, and in turn, move the spool off center, and the cylinder pressure would 'lead' to one side or the other, or as soon as you started it, it would move over to the steering stops, just depended on how much of the "slack" that you took out by tightening the end slug.
Best to be done by someone familiar with the setup.
Fred

Slick Fan · Post by **Slick Fan** » September 8, 2007, 1:07 pm

fmartin_gila wrote:I didn't really go deep enough in the last post. I've only been into one of them, and that was back in the early 70s so things are not totally clear, also, it was on a F 700, so was slightly different, but IIRC if you just turned the end slug in to reduce movement, it would put more pressure on the centering spring, and in turn, move the spool off center, and the cylinder pressure would 'lead' to one side or the other, or as soon as you started it, it would move over to the steering stops, just depended on how much of the "slack" that you took out by tightening the end slug.
Best to be done by someone familiar with the setup.
Fred

That's a good description.

While I haven't actually been into one of these particular valves, I do know that you can (or could, at least) buy rebuild kits for them that include a new tapered stud (to bolt to the drag link) & I think bushings for inside.
Omega was the brand of rebuild kit we used to sell. I bet Napa would have something available.

Hope that helps some.

1966Mercury · Post by **1966Mercury** » September 8, 2007, 7:47 pm

I have rebuilt a few of these valves. The Stanger site is pretty right on that if there is any scuffed damaged parts the rebuild won't last. Only way to tell is to take it apart. If it's real bad, send it off, if not try it yourself. There really is two halves to these things. The mechanical stub part and the hydraulic valve part. The slop in the pitman stub is a result of wear in the ball socket, socket caps on each side of the stud and the sleeve it all fits into. You have to change ALL these parts or you will still end up with too much play in the pitman stub. You will be amazed how much tighter the stub is when everything is new. The spring on the end of the valve is the centering spring. There is an adjustment, usually 2 turns back from locked down. After the valve is on the car you can adjust it if you have too much bias when turning the wheel in one direction. I think the shop manuals tell how to do this. The rebuild sequence is the same for car or truck, so if you find an old car manual it will give you enough info.. Hope this helps.