Ignition switch

[charliemccraney]

My replacement switch is different than the one I removed, which has made in USA on it so possibly original. There is an extra spade connector which is on the outside but it doesn't seem to do anything in any position of the switch, no continuity with any of the other terminals or ground. There is also an extra rivet that goes to ground but again, does not seem to connect to anything with the switch in any position.

First question is will this replacement work correctly?
Second is what are the extra terminal and ground for?

Related, I notice that the rivets on the new one (probably made in China) are smaller so I'm wondering if that will affect the load capability of the switch. Because of that, I'm considering buying a NOS switch but sometimes NOS is not necessarily better. For instance, gaskets and rubber parts can shrink, things can become brittle with age, etc. So would a NOS, potentially about 57 year old switch really be better than brand new Chinese? My original just came apart, which could point to shrinkage of parts, considering how it is held together.

Old on left, new on right:

[Day 2]

Here you go Charlie, hope this helps.
PS, If you want a good used one, just let me know....

Robert

[6166 Junkyard Dog]

personally I would use the Motorcraft Switch in which all should fit instead of mix/match with Chinese/tawain switches that might or might not work or how long they last.. we have a few left since I am not into any switches that come in a boat

[oldsmiley]

I'm pretty sure it's a foreign REPO, and may not last as long as your old one. But as far as the difference in the two, your old one HAD a spade terminal on the outside as well, it's just missing. That's why you have a hole there.

[Day 2]

I'm pretty sure it's a foreign REPO, and may not last as long as your old one. But as far as the difference in the two, your old one HAD a spade terminal on the outside as well, it's just missing. That's why you have a hole there.

Hey oldsmiley, I've got three original switches, and they all have the empty hole, never was a terminal attached to them. Extra terminal must be a foreign thing

Robert

[charliemccraney]

I have seen an NOS switch, made in USA, with that terminal so it was definitely on some. Mine's not missing. It was just never there.

As far as it being a ground like Duralast suggest, it does not have continuity with the metal housing or any of the other terminals in any switch position.

[Day 2]

Heres a link to something I read over on another forum, https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9402 ... blems.html which is pretty much the same answer I'm finding everywhere I look, the terminal is not used....Make note of Numberdummy's comments.. and here is a picture of said Bronco switch, note extra wire...

Robert

[oldsmiley]

Yeah Robert:
I can't take it away from the man, Numberdummy does have a ton of wisdom on this stuff. Just like ford will run out of a part and if they have another part that WILL work (even if you have to improvise that part a bit) that's the one they would replace it with. In an old set of FORD books I used to have, it would even tell you (when looking up a part number) if that part was OEM or that you may have to improvise.
But some people may say things that they aren't for sure is correct.....I've been guilty of that a few times myself. So he may be dead on the money about that switch.

[charliemccraney]

I looked at the parts of my original and the 3 terminals and stud do appear to function in the same way. I checked that extra terminal on the replacement with an ohm meter and cannot tell what it actually does, infinite resistance no matter what I try. Maybe that particular part of the switch is defective.

The Bottom line is that it does look like each style will work for our trucks. I have ordered 1 of each, NOS.

[Day 2]

This post on the same forum as above tells more about the extra terminal.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1366 ... witch.html

You shouldn't have any problems with whatever switch you chose.

Robert

[charliemccraney]

Got the NOS switches today. The one with the extra terminal came in worn Napa Echlin box with part number KS 6523. That part number appears to be good still and the product image actually shows a Made in USA switch but at a price of $16.99, I wonder if it really is. Great price, if it is. The correct one was advertised as a Borg Warner but no box came with it. Both are made in USA. Both are nearly identical to the original, with the obvious exceptions for the newer one. So hopefully I have at least one good one of the ones I have available.





If your curious about what the insides look like:

[charliemccraney]

For follow-up, I installed the 3 spade terminal switch and it's working well.

I did discover that the repro switch bezels seem to be junk. They look great but cause the lock cylinder to bind. The bezel that has been in the truck since I've had it appears to be some early '60s car bezel. It looks like crap, from some prior abuse but it works so it will remain until I find a proper bezel.

[charliemccraney]

On the subject of switch bezels, I've acquired a used original and finally, what I thought is a reasonably priced, NOS bezel.

Both the used original and NOS bezel are very close dimensionally, as you would expect. They average out to about .380" from where the smaller "pin" of the ignition switch rests to the area that is just behind the lock cylinder when the cylinder is installed.

The repro measures .437" which is .057" thicker (about 1/16") and that's after me grinding on it some to try to get it to work.

A sample size of 1 is statistically insignificant, so I could have got a bad one. Has anyone else run into that? Effectively, when installed, it contacts the back of the lock cylinder, causing it to bind.