Door Rubber

oldtrucks · Post by **oldtrucks** » January 31, 2008, 6:12 pm

Hammerit-

If the rubber comes with the retainer clips on the bottom of the door start there and work both ways. You need to stretch the rubber a little bit as you go as this "thins" the seal slightly and you will get a better fit. If you are up to it, take the door off and do the install on the bench. Two things happen, you get a really good fit and the door gets adjusted. I put the door back on and close and latch it then make sure the door is centered in the opening and then I get in from the opposite side and tighten the hinge bolts in the door. I know it is a lot of work but you will be happy with the results. Do one side at a time and take your time.

I use the yellow colored contact cement that comes in a can, not the tube. I apply it with an acid brush to both surfaces. You don't have to coat all of the surfaces only about 2/3rds of it. That way no adhesive shows when you open the door. Like Chip Foose says "pay attention to the details".

Hammerit- · Post by **Hammerit-** » February 8, 2008, 9:42 am

Update;

Received the door rubbers from Dennis Carpenter.

They are the same shape however the Dennis Carpenter rubbers are softer, spongier...

After installing the first one, shut the door...PERFECTLY.

I plan on contacting LMC and telling them this.

Thanks for the insight and education.

This site is awsome for this type stuff.

Hammerit-

6166 Junkyard Dog · Post by **6166 Junkyard Dog** » February 9, 2008, 9:34 pm

LMC Rubbers are most likely from Tawain why so cheap, I can buy them from a place that is 15.00 for the pair and its 15.00 worth of sxxt just like now the other day that I can get turn signal switches for 65-69 trucks for about 15.00, cost the company making them .05 over there and are not even worth the .05 since went to take it out and fell apart in my hand, sorry I keep using Ford Parts and US Rubber

Lowell · Post by **Lowell** » February 9, 2008, 10:29 pm

Im like Effie. I didnt know about the LMC gaskets until i ordered them and tried to put them on. I made them work but the doors still dont shut as well as i would like. Its hard to tell which one is left or right or what goes to the front or back, as my old gaskets were so far gone that i coudnt look at them to get any idea on the new ones. got windshield and rear glass gaskets from obsolete Ford parts (no longer their name) and have used the rear gasket so far and it fit perfectly.

blackagatha · Post by **blackagatha** » February 10, 2008, 3:43 am

Lowell, they have contured rubber sections that fit the shape of intricate corners. They should also have the ends come together on the front edge of the door.

MAC's Door seals are terrible too. Damn I wish I had some from DC. The one on my driver's door has been on for like 5 years now, and still has to slam like hell to shut. So bad I decided to refrain from putting on the one for the PAX side... That seal is all but gone... it's bad.

slickmainer · Post by **slickmainer** » July 20, 2010, 5:00 pm

it's old I know...but what is the best method of getting the old door seal and dried out rubber/glue off so you can have a clean place to put new? a gallon of googone?

Michelle · Post by **Michelle** » July 20, 2010, 6:28 pm

slickmainer wrote:it's old I know...but what is the best method of getting the old door seal and dried out rubber/glue off so you can have a clean place to put new? a gallon of googone?

3M makes a release agent and also a cleaner for removing glue and goo.

slickmainer · Post by **slickmainer** » July 20, 2010, 9:39 pm

thank you. i also played with a wire wheel and it took that all off but didn't hurt the door much, i was going to sand and prime it anyway.

Max · Post by **Max** » July 20, 2010, 9:59 pm

I bought a handful of these at Harbor Freight - Abrasive Nylon Bristle Brushes for an air or electric drill. Removed my old weatherstripping including the glue like it was a hot knife going through butter! Very quick and easy and won't gouge the metal underneath at all.

I also removed the small clamps that hold the weatherstripping in place on the doors to make it easier to remove the rubber and glue residue.

coledaddy541 · Post by **coledaddy541** » July 22, 2010, 12:36 am

Just got my mystery door rubbers off. They probably came from JC Whitney(dad bought them at some point) and I decided, what the hell, no use having new parts laying around. Now it's beer, acetone, and a plastic scraper until I can find something to fit correctly. The door would stop 1.5 inches from closing. PATHETIC. So Dennis Carpenter is the way to go?

ICEMAN6166 · Post by **ICEMAN6166** » July 22, 2010, 1:31 am

it sure is.
i bought some cheap ones once too, after the first one did not fit right i ordered the DC stuff.no problems with those. still have the other Taiwanese one i never used.

this time around i ordered from Tom @ flashback f100s. he sells only the good quality stuff.
got more personal service and an Alaska-friendly shipping deal.

SLICKCOLLECTOR · Post by **SLICKCOLLECTOR** » July 22, 2010, 6:50 am

my doors won't close on my rat rod doors after installing LMC weatherstrip either. they will slam shut with the hinges adjusted all the way out but i find that is par for the course for LMC. i find the same for ACC carpet sold by LMC and all the rest. the carpet is 3/4 of an inch to narrow at the front, from firewall to doors. the last 2 or 3 carpets i installed fit the same way. the manufacturers saved 2 cents but lost 10 cents by leaving the tail running up the back. the only thing good about LMC for me is it is about 20 minutes away. very very frustrating.

jim

Michelle · Post by **Michelle** » July 22, 2010, 4:15 pm

I had ordered my door rubber strips from LMC for my big truck and like to never got the doors to close half way right. After a while they will finally compress. On the Ranger I ordered them from DC and didn't have a bit of problem.

qwertyd10n · Post by **qwertyd10n** » January 4, 2011, 10:26 am

Max wrote:I bought a handful of these at Harbor Freight - Abrasive Nylon Bristle Brushes for an air or electric drill. Removed my old weatherstripping including the glue like it was a hot knife going through butter! Very quick and easy and won't gouge the metal underneath at all.

I also removed the small clamps that hold the weatherstripping in place on the doors to make it easier to remove the rubber and glue residue.

Hey Max,

I was just cleaning up my pasasenger door to install the new door rubbers last night and noticed some "clip" like whatchamacallits on the front side of the door (between the hinges) and I didn't know what they were for. My old rubber wasn't held down by these... Any chance you could put the correct linkup for this photo so I can see how they're supposed work? Or anyone else who has some pics of this is would be appreciated.

Cheers,
Dion