Engine Mount?

[stellj]

I have a 64F100 with a 302 in it, but the PO jacked up some stuff with the engine and a mount is broke. I was thinking about putting in bolt in mounts, Does anyone know any good ones? I checked LMC and they are $99.95, is this a good deal or there something better out there?
I also have not been on here for awhile and am finally back on a good schedule to start working on it again. I have alot more body work to do, but first I want to get this thing up and running good first. Thanks

[64 litl un]

Ive had good luck with the tube crossmember mounts. With a great deal of care you can install them without completely removing tour engine. Then drive to the muffler shop and have the crossmember tubes tacked to the frame mount tubes. The transmission mount should keep it from swinging in the frame tubes long enough to make it too the muffler shop. That is if you do not have access to a welder.

[blackagatha]

Ive had good luck with the tube crossmember mounts. With a great deal of care you can install them without completely removing tour engine. Then drive to the muffler shop and have the crossmember tubes tacked to the frame mount tubes. The transmission mount should keep it from swinging in the frame tubes long enough to make it too the muffler shop. That is if you do not have access to a welder.

Yeah, I guess that may work, but in general I would say that sounds like a BAD idea...

Oh, it may not be as bad as it sounded at first, you are talking about the 3 piece tubular?
The tubular FE xmember was one piece. I wouldnt go anywhere without it bolted/welded down.

[shawns fords]

I have a 64F100 with a 302 in it, but the PO jacked up some stuff with the engine and a mount is broke. I was thinking about putting in bolt in mounts, Does anyone know any good ones? I checked LMC and they are $99.95, is this a good deal or there something better out there?
I also have not been on here for awhile and am finally back on a good schedule to start working on it again. I have alot more body work to do, but first I want to get this thing up and running good first. Thanks

Welcome back, that engine mount kit is sold from many suppliers, one of my favorites is National Parts Depot (NPD) and they handled my order like I was a king and I will continue to buy from them as long as they have the best customer service and shipping you can get. the product is also sold through Transdapt. as far as who actually makes it, I havent found out yet, but maybe someone else will chime in on that. you can also look them both up online NPD or Trans-dapt. as well as many others that sell truck parts. shop around for the best deal.

[64 litl un]

Yes I was talking about the three piece cross member. I looked at my post and it does sound bad if you are not familiar with the three piece mount. You most definatly have to bolt the frame pieces in. I had a very long post on installation but most of it was a disclaimer so I cut it down maybe too much.

[blackagatha]

I believe they are made by Trans-dapt.

Personally, I would not bolt it in, without modification to include the lower frame rail. We welded mine in, with little boxing plates, so that it wasnt just hanging on the top edge. It was a pain to tear out, but I was alright with it.

My new mounts are bolted in, but include the top and bottom of the frame, and are very substantial. At some point I will likely end up nuking them too, as I need to raise the drivetrain.... I cant leave stuff be... haha

[64 litl un]

Summit Racing offers the two piece mounts bolt in.
The crossmember is offered in The JC Whitley Catalogue. Its way past the lighted hood ornaments, curb feelers and Night Rider grille lights. In the last book I had it was towards the end. " Universal cross member mount, allows the installation of small block Ford and Chevy engines in many earlier frames 1928-64 Ford truck"
This mount is offered by many suppliers.
In 1991 I installed this mount in a 54 GMC. This is what I did.
The front clip was off the GMC so I had plenty of space. The engine in the truck was mounted hap hazzardly. The the old style front mounts were not holding the engine a SB#% well. When it was revved the engine would twist so much that the valve cover would hit the firewall. A small length of chain was wrapped around the exhaust manifold and frame to help keep it between the rails.
I inspected my new mounts. I also ordered the engine pads and mounting bolts.
It comes in three pieces. The two frame pieces are made of a larger diameter tube welded to a flat square plate. These fit against the inside of the frame rail. It has four holes drilled for mounting to the frame.
The cross member itself is of slightly smaller tubing it fits inside the frame pieces. I took measurements of the distance between rails. This is an eyeball fab job and constantly measuring was not nessesary.
I cut my cross member an inch or so shorter than the inside rail distance. This allowed for the flat plate that bolts to the frame.
I rigged the engine like I was going to pull it. I had two eyes bolted across the intake this is where I had my chain bolted to alow me to lift the engine with a hoist, come alongs back then. I also chocked underneath with blocks of wood. I then proceeded to remove all that jerry rigged P/O crap.
I put the three pieces of the cross member together. I placed one side in the rail then swung the other into the other rail. With it in the rails you can slide it up and down the frame under the engine. The GMC had no fuel or brake lines in the rails that got in the way. If it had they would need to moved out the way until the job was complete. With the mount centered under the engine I bolted the pads on the block. I then made sure the engine was centered and everything lined up. I even took measurements from the front of the frame to the cross meber to make sure everything was square. This was a test fit.
With chalk I then marked through the bolt holes onto the inside frame rails. With the engine still secure at several points I slid the assembly out of the way and drilled my holes. I used a small bit first then bigger. Slid the assembly back into place and bolted it down with 8 bolts.
The cross member would swing inside its mounts but it was a physical impossibility for it to fall out.
I then mounted the motor. As the engine was lined up and set down the weight locked the cross member in place. As long as the transmission is mounted its not going to move.
Welding the cross member tube to the frame mount tube is a good idea. Honestly I never had that done to the GMC. You couldn't move that motor in its mounts with a 6' pry bar I tried. I would get it welded if I were to do it today.

[jwh f-100]

stellj, Take a look here, http://www.tdperformance.com/TransDapt.html
Double check it but part# number 4849 It is a five peice kit including new "tube to engine" mounts. Search for a dealer in your area you may be suprised.

I bought the five peice locally for about $180.oo and had it the next day. I should be installing mine in the next few weeks.