Removing a Few Leafs From My '64?

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lefty
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Post by lefty »

Thanks Tom. Im going home and check it out before I ask any more stupid questions... :dontknow:
'61 Uni SWB BBW Custom Cab 302 T-5 w/ Power brakes
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Fanatic
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Post by Fanatic »

I kinda agree about the new springs to start with as it seems everyone is doing different stuff and coming up with all diff. ride heights. The end result that I have found is that having the spring straight/flat is about as low as you can go. I don't think they work as well as they should when they are flat but I did install a huge 1 1/8" sway bar and it seems pretty good -----for now--not many miles yet--so I'll see how it works out.

Tim
INEPTOCRACY: (in-ep'-toc-ra-cy) : a system of government where the least capable to lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the members of society least likely to sustain themselves or succeed are rewarded with goods and services paid for by the confiscated wealth of a diminishing number of producers.
36truck
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Post by 36truck »

Lefty you need to ask :?: so you don't do things wrong. Only stupid :?: is one not asked. So ask away we will try to answer the best we can.
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Truckrat
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removing leaves

Post by Truckrat »

:oops: An easy way I found to get them down by 2-3 inches is have the spring shop take the main leaf and reverse the arch and then put them back together. This reverses the eyes of the spring and has been an old hotrodder trick from way back. If you do remove any leaves have the spring shop do it before they put in the new tie bolts and bushings in the spring eyes. As was mentioned before, do NOT use your old u-bolts and nuts. Those things have been stressed from age and abuse, and once you disturb them by taking them apart, you are asking for trouble by reusing them. Get new ones at the spring shop while you are there. Might be a good idea to take along one from each axle just so you get the same type, but considering you are removing a leaf or two, you may opt for slightly shorter ones when you bolt it all back in. One other thing is check and see what the torque spec is on the u-bolt nuts.
I am not sure where to look for that, but the spring shop probably has some of that information. Good luck to you. TR
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matt2491
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Post by matt2491 »

Okay yesterday I decided to lower it by flipping one of the middle leaf springs over the main leaf in a negative arc, and then clamping it all together. Not only does it better support the entire spring pack, but the truck dropped a few inches at the same time the ride got softer, yet not as soft as if leafs were removed altogether. I took it for a drive and it held up just fine. They were doing road construction on my road too, and even with all the bumps and holes, it didn't bottom out. So I'm going to lower it another inch or two, and cut the bumpstop in half for clearance, and see how it goes from there.

I'm going to do the rear too sometime in the next few days. I'll keep you guys posted.
Just driving my truck.
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matt2491
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Post by matt2491 »

Let me tell you RIGHT NOW, the truck handles 500% better than stock. I cannot express how much the handling improved. I can go as much as 2x faster through turns now, with very little sway or roll. Holy crap this is something else... And it bottoms out only on the hardest bumps and holes.

Plus, it just takes the edge off that "tippity-top farm truck look." The truck just looks sweet lowered a few inches. Did I mention that handling is now incredible?

I have yet to encounter any problems with the steering, as some have warned me to watch out for. I'm taking it easy on the truck, until I know what it can do and won't do with the new stance/suspension.
_____

Here are some pics:

Truck at stock height:
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Truck lowered approx. 3" front /4" back:
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Pics of the lowered front springs:
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Pics of lowered rear springs:
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Couple diagrams detailing exactly what I did - my truck has a 6 leaf front spring pack, 5 leaf rear spring pack (including overload leaf):
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_____

Do you think the truck looks better lowered a few inches? I know it rides better and handles 10 fold better, but I would really appreciate your input.

Thanks --Matt
Just driving my truck.
f100matt
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Post by f100matt »

Wow, that looks pretty damn good! 8) glad it worked out for ya
-1966 Ford F100, 352, 4 speed, smoke grey, mustang buckets
-2003 Ford Ranger XL, 3.0, 5 speed
-1989 Ford F250, 460, highboy, 4x4
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lefty
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Post by lefty »

Thanks.... you guys helped me a bunch! Now I gotta get to work!! :D
'61 Uni SWB BBW Custom Cab 302 T-5 w/ Power brakes
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The Big M
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Post by The Big M »

I'd try to drop it a bit more in front, but it's a nice drop overall.

However, isn't this setup going to increase the stress near the ends of the main leaf?
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matt2491
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Post by matt2491 »

The Big M wrote:I'd try to drop it a bit more in front, but it's a nice drop overall.
Yeah that's what I was thinking too. It's nagging me quite a bit that the front sits level with the rear, if not slightly higher. The truck needs a slight rake to give it that aggressive look.
The Big M wrote:However, isn't this setup going to increase the stress near the ends of the main leaf?
I don't think so, not any more than removing leafs altogether would or even the stock pack. I purposely did NOT flip the leaf located right beneath the main leaf, because that leaf does an important job of supporting the main leaf.
_____

Can you guys tell from the pics a distinct difference between stock and lowered height? Or is it minimal?
Just driving my truck.
Bodyworx!
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Post by Bodyworx! »

I know this thread is older but what the hell.

There is a truck on another board ( OSR ) that is a Straight axle truck. He lowered his by doing a leaf over conversion. Taking the leaf spring packs and relocating them below the axle in the front and below the axle in the back. It will still retain the spring strength while gettin it pretty low. This will take some fab work to pull off as you have to make new perches for your front axle. Heres some pics.

Keep in mind that the picture of the rear is on the bumpstops but he had about 1500lbs of car parts in the bed too. He said that normally it sits about 2 inches off the stops.

Image
Image
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Just a thought.
" You can fix anything with Duct tape, Bailing wire and a welder ! "
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Alan Mclennan
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Post by Alan Mclennan »

Bodyworx! that front axle flip is ok as long as you have the U bolts going over the top of the axle, but not like the one in your pic that is death on wheels every thing hangs on some lousy welds look at Heavies post on the Blue truck heading
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thats how it should be done


Alan,
Honey, If I say I`ll fix something I will, there`s no need to remind me every 6 months!!
66 f100 tabletop swb 351 Clevo C6 "Beryl"

Slick Stock 3 KCMO
Slick Stock 4 Altoona
Slick Stock 5 KCMO
Slick Stock 6 Altoona
Slick Stock 7 Salina KS
Slick Stock 8.............................. cry.gif
Bodyworx!
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Post by Bodyworx! »

I totally agree with you. I would opt for the blocks to add the extra support also but the one pictured is also not my truck. I will be doin mine the right way. Safety first but also important to me is appearance. My goal is not to be embarassed about anything when im done. Do you have a link to that thread by chance ? Did he use solid blocks or Square tube ?
" You can fix anything with Duct tape, Bailing wire and a welder ! "
Phil
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Post by Phil »

Bodyworx! wrote:I totally agree with you. I would opt for the blocks to add the extra support also but the one pictured is also not my truck. I will be doin mine the right way. Safety first but also important to me is appearance. My goal is not to be embarassed about anything when im done. Do you have a link to that thread by chance ? Did he use solid blocks or Square tube ?
blocks
http://fordtruk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=6188
Someday I'll get another slick :(
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Alan Mclennan
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Post by Alan Mclennan »

Phil, I hope I wasnt out of line using your picture, it just showed the axle flip so well!


Alan,
Honey, If I say I`ll fix something I will, there`s no need to remind me every 6 months!!
66 f100 tabletop swb 351 Clevo C6 "Beryl"

Slick Stock 3 KCMO
Slick Stock 4 Altoona
Slick Stock 5 KCMO
Slick Stock 6 Altoona
Slick Stock 7 Salina KS
Slick Stock 8.............................. cry.gif
Phil
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Post by Phil »

Alan Mclennan wrote:Phil, I hope I wasnt out of line using your picture, it just showed the axle flip so well!


Alan,
I wouldn't post em if I was greedy
Someday I'll get another slick :(
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jecsd1
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Post by jecsd1 »

what about dropped shackles?
blackagatha
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Post by blackagatha »

gawd that bird s#!t welded plate that the truck is hanging from is plain STUPID!!! that dude is just askin to die... you know, as much as the idea of vehicle inspections does NOT thrill me, they might keep s#!t like that off the road....

the idea of flipping a leaf over is kinda interesting....

long ago somebody was saying that old springs arent able to support the weight when the pack is disassembled... WELL, it doesnt surprise me... they actually stand quite happy, dont seem very tired at all until you take their buddies away... they werent designed to work that way... haha
'63 with 390 & lots of juice. But never enough. Always want more.
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Bodyworx!
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Post by Bodyworx! »

I think my End result is gonna be one ( MAIN ) leaf reversed arch with Air Bags. Still mullin it over. I like my ride to be adjustable. Ive lowered a whole lot of vehicles but never messed with air. I think im gonna try and learn something new. I still might do the axle flip though.
" You can fix anything with Duct tape, Bailing wire and a welder ! "
shawns fords
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Post by shawns fords »

that truck bodyworx has posted has been running around colorado springs for years, I saw it at goodguys a long time ago, funny, it hasnt ever given him any problems especially with colorado roads always torn up after winter plows run them down repeatedly :lol:
Image

this is the good side
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