Hey, all. Just wondering if anyone here has done an airbag installation on a slick. It would be nice to get mine down in the weeds. Is there a kit available for a slick with the dual I-beams or would I have to make my own way here? Is it more trouble than it's worth and just go with some lowering springs instead?
I'm planning on disc brakes up front and power steering eventually also. Geez, I feel like a newbie, but I'm a techie by trade and not a mechanic, so I'm kinda learning as I go. Hey, at least I got the darn thing running and (almost) street worthy.
Bags on an IFS Slick
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Ford_in_Montana
- Posts: 9
- Joined: April 18, 2007, 8:04 pm
Bags on an IFS Slick
Why do Chevy engines have so many aftermarket parts available?
BECAUSE THEY NEED THEM!!!
BECAUSE THEY NEED THEM!!!
- DV65CustomCab
- Posts: 1497
- Joined: July 18, 2006, 4:23 pm
- Location: Elizabethtown, PA

Won't work.
Have a look at how the I-beams move and what effect shortening the spring (or using less air in a bag) will have. The arm will go up into the chassis. As it does this, the wheel will arc upward and inward giving the truck massive additional camber. Lowering springs and airbags will not work on the Twin I suspension because of this. You need to get lowering beams to perform this mod.
Have a look at how the I-beams move and what effect shortening the spring (or using less air in a bag) will have. The arm will go up into the chassis. As it does this, the wheel will arc upward and inward giving the truck massive additional camber. Lowering springs and airbags will not work on the Twin I suspension because of this. You need to get lowering beams to perform this mod.
Stop The Longbed Hate! 
'65 F100 Custom Cab bought 2002/Sold 2014
Now: '93 F150 Lightning
'65 F100 Custom Cab bought 2002/Sold 2014
Now: '93 F150 Lightning
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Ford_in_Montana
- Posts: 9
- Joined: April 18, 2007, 8:04 pm
That's bad news, as I plan to lower this thing eventually.
So how much to the shorter I-beams run? What about dropped spindles instead/in addition?
I guess the good news is that the rear will be easy to lower.....
I guess the good news is that the rear will be easy to lower.....
Why do Chevy engines have so many aftermarket parts available?
BECAUSE THEY NEED THEM!!!
BECAUSE THEY NEED THEM!!!
put a fat man front end on it lots for work about 1200 bucks but well worth it gives you a power rack and stainless a arms with spring or coilovers or bags with dropped spindles any ? just ask me.
john
http://www.classictrucks.com/events/071 ... to_10.html
john
http://www.classictrucks.com/events/071 ... to_10.html
Not to HiJack but did that FatMan kit come with some decent info/Instructions ? Do they have a tech support ? What kind of fab work is involved ? All i own is a MIG and was wondering if that would do it. Thanks in advance.johnny wrote:put a fat man front end on it lots for work about 1200 bucks but well worth it gives you a power rack and stainless a arms with spring or coilovers or bags with dropped spindles any ? just ask me.
john
http://www.classictrucks.com/events/071 ... to_10.html
PHIL
" You can fix anything with Duct tape, Bailing wire and a welder ! "
- DV65CustomCab
- Posts: 1497
- Joined: July 18, 2006, 4:23 pm
- Location: Elizabethtown, PA

Drop Beams:
http://www.djmsuspension.com/Articles/DreamBeams.htm
Are the Fat Man front setups basically a Mustang II copy? M II isn't really sturdy enough for our trucks.
http://www.djmsuspension.com/Articles/DreamBeams.htm
Are the Fat Man front setups basically a Mustang II copy? M II isn't really sturdy enough for our trucks.
Stop The Longbed Hate! 
'65 F100 Custom Cab bought 2002/Sold 2014
Now: '93 F150 Lightning
'65 F100 Custom Cab bought 2002/Sold 2014
Now: '93 F150 Lightning
sorry ford in montana just to answer some ??? ive had my front end on for 3 years i tow a 16 foot car trailer and a 6500 pound 27 foot travel trailer with it all the time as far as not being sturdy enough i would strongly have to disagree it is similar to m II but doesnt have the strut on back of lower arm they a both stainless A arms they have great instructions and tech it just takes some time to prep basically your tearing out the main front cross member and replacing it with theres alot cleaner and lighter it has 11" brakes with power rack and sway bar with lots of upgrades basically i swear by it
http://www.fatmanfab.com/catalogpage.php?page=5
http://www.fatmanfab.com/catalogpage.php?page=5
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Ford_in_Montana
- Posts: 9
- Joined: April 18, 2007, 8:04 pm
I think I'll go with the drop beams. I already got my engine in place, the truck is a runner and I'm planning on doing it bit by bit. I should have disc brakes in it and have it for a daily driver soon. After which, I'm not going to want to tear it completely apart. The other thing I had to think twice about is that completely slamming the truck, which is the whole point of airbags to me, would require cutting some releifs into the bed for the rear axle to sink into, thus eliminating some of the truck quality of your truck. Anyway, thanks for the info.
Hey, what about power steering? I know some people here have added that to their trucks. I know the original steering box is much different on the 65-66 than on the 61-64. Anyone know what kind of power steering box is a good fit for the 65-66 and would adapt without too much hassle?
Hey, what about power steering? I know some people here have added that to their trucks. I know the original steering box is much different on the 65-66 than on the 61-64. Anyone know what kind of power steering box is a good fit for the 65-66 and would adapt without too much hassle?
Why do Chevy engines have so many aftermarket parts available?
BECAUSE THEY NEED THEM!!!
BECAUSE THEY NEED THEM!!!
Droped beams will give you 2" and you can drop it about 1" by cutting a little off the coils. If you are going to drive it more than once a week then don't do the coils.
MII is OK if you are not going to drive very agressive. The stearing and suspention geometry is not designed for a heavy truck with a high center of gravity. You can get stronger arms and "beef" up things, but this does nothing for the geometry. If you do this option use Fat Man. Very nice guys.
There is another option of a Dakota Kit. This is a weld in crossmember much like the MII. But this uses STOCK Dodge Dakota parts availible at any autoparts store or junk yard. The kit will not cost you as much as a MII eather. http://www.industrialchassisinc.com/ Steve, the owner, is a member here, but doesn't come around much because we gave him to much crap about his Cheby motor.
I chose the Dakota Kit.
MII is OK if you are not going to drive very agressive. The stearing and suspention geometry is not designed for a heavy truck with a high center of gravity. You can get stronger arms and "beef" up things, but this does nothing for the geometry. If you do this option use Fat Man. Very nice guys.
There is another option of a Dakota Kit. This is a weld in crossmember much like the MII. But this uses STOCK Dodge Dakota parts availible at any autoparts store or junk yard. The kit will not cost you as much as a MII eather. http://www.industrialchassisinc.com/ Steve, the owner, is a member here, but doesn't come around much because we gave him to much crap about his Cheby motor.
I chose the Dakota Kit.
