lincoln 460
- ezernut9mm
- Posts: 9141
- Joined: July 21, 2006, 9:37 pm
- Location: KCMO

lincoln 460
i am going to look at a 460 and c6 combo out of a 77 mark v. complete from air filter to oil pan, engine fan to drive shaft. all accessories included. they guy wants 400$ for everything.
why wouldn't i want this set up? i know i'll need engine perches and a different oil pan and pick up tube, but that should be all-correct?
i know that it will be a smogged out boat anchor, but the price is right.
talk me out of it, or into it.
why wouldn't i want this set up? i know i'll need engine perches and a different oil pan and pick up tube, but that should be all-correct?
i know that it will be a smogged out boat anchor, but the price is right.
talk me out of it, or into it.
always
"i believe i've achieved satisfaction".-bubbles
"should i be gettin" baked for this boys?"-bubbles
i could no longer keep "r.i.p.ing" all of our fallen brothers and sisters, so i say here, slick loads of love and much respect to all you beautiful people.
"i believe i've achieved satisfaction".-bubbles
"should i be gettin" baked for this boys?"-bubbles
i could no longer keep "r.i.p.ing" all of our fallen brothers and sisters, so i say here, slick loads of love and much respect to all you beautiful people.
- ezernut9mm
- Posts: 9141
- Joined: July 21, 2006, 9:37 pm
- Location: KCMO

i agree, i seem to remember some negitive thoughts on lincoln 460's for some reason and i can't remember why.
it supposedly has less than 80k on it.
pics:


it supposedly has less than 80k on it.
pics:


always
"i believe i've achieved satisfaction".-bubbles
"should i be gettin" baked for this boys?"-bubbles
i could no longer keep "r.i.p.ing" all of our fallen brothers and sisters, so i say here, slick loads of love and much respect to all you beautiful people.
"i believe i've achieved satisfaction".-bubbles
"should i be gettin" baked for this boys?"-bubbles
i could no longer keep "r.i.p.ing" all of our fallen brothers and sisters, so i say here, slick loads of love and much respect to all you beautiful people.
- ezernut9mm
- Posts: 9141
- Joined: July 21, 2006, 9:37 pm
- Location: KCMO

- Johnny Canuck
- Posts: 8291
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- Location: Edmonton, Alberta.

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ICEMAN6166
- Posts: 11470
- Joined: July 11, 2006, 11:28 am
- Location: Dove Creek, Co. elevation 6842

the orange paint is a negative.
if i remember correctly not the perches you need, its special mounts to fit the block to them.
been a long time but i got mine from a place called L&L, put a 429 in my 79.
if i remember correctly not the perches you need, its special mounts to fit the block to them.
been a long time but i got mine from a place called L&L, put a 429 in my 79.
1966 F250 4x4
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
Rest in peace departed Slick family members
Cam Milam
Lesley Ferguson
Steve Lopes
John Sutton
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
Rest in peace departed Slick family members
Cam Milam
Lesley Ferguson
Steve Lopes
John Sutton
- ezernut9mm
- Posts: 9141
- Joined: July 21, 2006, 9:37 pm
- Location: KCMO

- ezernut9mm
- Posts: 9141
- Joined: July 21, 2006, 9:37 pm
- Location: KCMO

why are the lincoln 460's different than fords for the engine mounts/perches? lmc sells a kit, but it says that it's not for lincoln engines.
always
"i believe i've achieved satisfaction".-bubbles
"should i be gettin" baked for this boys?"-bubbles
i could no longer keep "r.i.p.ing" all of our fallen brothers and sisters, so i say here, slick loads of love and much respect to all you beautiful people.
"i believe i've achieved satisfaction".-bubbles
"should i be gettin" baked for this boys?"-bubbles
i could no longer keep "r.i.p.ing" all of our fallen brothers and sisters, so i say here, slick loads of love and much respect to all you beautiful people.
- ezernut9mm
- Posts: 9141
- Joined: July 21, 2006, 9:37 pm
- Location: KCMO

-
BackyardRest
Re: lincoln 460
460's are great engines!ezernut9mm wrote:i am going to look at a 460 and c6 combo out of a 77 mark v. complete from air filter to oil pan, engine fan to drive shaft. all accessories included. they guy wants 400$ for everything.
why wouldn't i want this set up? i know i'll need engine perches and a different oil pan and pick up tube, but that should be all-correct?
i know that it will be a smogged out boat anchor, but the price is right.
talk me out of it, or into it.
But..... few questions first. Do you plan on dropping it in like it is?
If so you need to consider having a leak down test done on all 8 cylinders. (while you watch or do it yourself) if it has over 20% leakdown then consider it for a rebuild.
Also that year is only 202hp and are turds in stock form.
The D3VE heads which it should have make a great starting point if ported so it depends on the HP level you are looking for.
The intakes for performance SUCK! Plan on a Edelbrock Performer for say up to around 350hp or so and the Performer RPM for over that and with ported or aluminum heads.
If you are planning on a rebuild the block, heads, crank and possible rods would be ok for low hp levels.
The oil pan would be a front sump, the 4x4 style pan for sure will fit
More info on what you plan on doing with the engine.
The C-6 trans is ok to use in your truck but will have a fairly long tail shaft so you will need to shorten your driveshaft...
enough for now
-
BackyardRest
all in all its not really that good of a deal not knowing what it really is.
I would not even think about paying the cost of an engine swap without knowing the exact condition of engine before hand.
It will end up costing you far more than 400 additional by the time you get it running. Are you sure you want to have a 800.00 to 1000.00 investment in an engine that you know nothing about?
Do you know if the trans is any good?
Why was it taken out?
At minimum pull a valve cover off to see if there is any sludge buildup. What does engine oil look like when you pull the dip stick? Tranny oil?
A lot to consider here.
30yr old engines are never a good deal with too many unknowns
I would not even think about paying the cost of an engine swap without knowing the exact condition of engine before hand.
It will end up costing you far more than 400 additional by the time you get it running. Are you sure you want to have a 800.00 to 1000.00 investment in an engine that you know nothing about?
Do you know if the trans is any good?
Why was it taken out?
At minimum pull a valve cover off to see if there is any sludge buildup. What does engine oil look like when you pull the dip stick? Tranny oil?
A lot to consider here.
30yr old engines are never a good deal with too many unknowns
Last edited by BackyardRest on February 3, 2009, 10:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- ezernut9mm
- Posts: 9141
- Joined: July 21, 2006, 9:37 pm
- Location: KCMO

not really looking for any real performance. just a good runner for dd duties. i was planning on just dropping it in and running it. since it is an egr set up i was just going to block that off and plug the thermactor holes in the heads. i can do that without any negitive effects, right?
if i was planning to spend some coin on a rebuild, i would just buy a crate engine and be done with it, but i am on a zero budget and i am wanting a plug and play engine and transmission.
i know that buying something like this out of someone's garage is a risk, but one i'm gong to have to take on my budget.
the guy lives just up the road from me, so if i do buy it and it turns out to be a dud i'll just drive by his house in the early a.m. with my bb gun and shoot out 400$ worth of porch lights over the next ten years or so.
if i was planning to spend some coin on a rebuild, i would just buy a crate engine and be done with it, but i am on a zero budget and i am wanting a plug and play engine and transmission.
i know that buying something like this out of someone's garage is a risk, but one i'm gong to have to take on my budget.
the guy lives just up the road from me, so if i do buy it and it turns out to be a dud i'll just drive by his house in the early a.m. with my bb gun and shoot out 400$ worth of porch lights over the next ten years or so.
always
"i believe i've achieved satisfaction".-bubbles
"should i be gettin" baked for this boys?"-bubbles
i could no longer keep "r.i.p.ing" all of our fallen brothers and sisters, so i say here, slick loads of love and much respect to all you beautiful people.
"i believe i've achieved satisfaction".-bubbles
"should i be gettin" baked for this boys?"-bubbles
i could no longer keep "r.i.p.ing" all of our fallen brothers and sisters, so i say here, slick loads of love and much respect to all you beautiful people.
-
BackyardRest
LOL!ezernut9mm wrote:not really looking for any real performance. just a good runner for dd duties. i was planning on just dropping it in and running it. since it is an egr set up i was just going to block that off and plug the thermactor holes in the heads. i can do that without any negitive effects, right?
if i was planning to spend some coin on a rebuild, i would just buy a crate engine and be done with it, but i am on a zero budget and i am wanting a plug and play engine and transmission.
i know that buying something like this out of someone's garage is a risk, but one i'm gong to have to take on my budget.
the guy lives just up the road from me, so if i do buy it and it turns out to be a dud i'll just drive by his house in the early a.m. with my bb gun and shoot out 400$ worth of porch lights over the next ten years or so.
Do your homework before you buy it. As I said its not worth the money and conversion costs if the engine is no good.
I can get you a reman engine for not much more $$
For sure you need to put in your budget a performer rpm intake, headers and as someone mentioned the cams are retarded 8deg. put in another straight up timing set. Also a better carb.
THe leakdown is almost a must do. along with pulling a valve cover.
If you do the intake, carb, headers and timing set you will gain up to 10mpg and close to 75hp minimum.
Why was the engine removed and did you hear it run?
Deleting the EGR will have no effect on how it runs. You can buy a Edelbrock performer intake without egr.
-
BackyardRest
-
ICEMAN6166
- Posts: 11470
- Joined: July 11, 2006, 11:28 am
- Location: Dove Creek, Co. elevation 6842

dont knowezernut9mm wrote:why are the lincoln 460's different than fords for the engine mounts/perches? lmc sells a kit, but it says that it's not for lincoln engines.
i used these
http://www.landlproducts.com/details.as ... temID=1017
1966 F250 4x4
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
Rest in peace departed Slick family members
Cam Milam
Lesley Ferguson
Steve Lopes
John Sutton
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
Rest in peace departed Slick family members
Cam Milam
Lesley Ferguson
Steve Lopes
John Sutton
- ezernut9mm
- Posts: 9141
- Joined: July 21, 2006, 9:37 pm
- Location: KCMO

i apprieciate all of your input bry.
i think i have access to a leak down tester.
he says it still has the oil in it. i know pretty much what to look for in the oil (coolant, metallic particles, etc.).
what am i looking for under the valve cover, other than obvious brakeage and sludge?
if you have seen pics of the truck this would be going in you would understand why i don't want to spend 2k on an engine and then another 1k on a transmission.
i really want to find a running driving truck to pull the engine/trans from, but am not having any luck right now so this is just an option and i am not commited to buying it.
i thought for 400$ an engine and trans was a pretty good deal.
i think i have access to a leak down tester.
he says it still has the oil in it. i know pretty much what to look for in the oil (coolant, metallic particles, etc.).
what am i looking for under the valve cover, other than obvious brakeage and sludge?
if you have seen pics of the truck this would be going in you would understand why i don't want to spend 2k on an engine and then another 1k on a transmission.
i really want to find a running driving truck to pull the engine/trans from, but am not having any luck right now so this is just an option and i am not commited to buying it.
i thought for 400$ an engine and trans was a pretty good deal.
always
"i believe i've achieved satisfaction".-bubbles
"should i be gettin" baked for this boys?"-bubbles
i could no longer keep "r.i.p.ing" all of our fallen brothers and sisters, so i say here, slick loads of love and much respect to all you beautiful people.
"i believe i've achieved satisfaction".-bubbles
"should i be gettin" baked for this boys?"-bubbles
i could no longer keep "r.i.p.ing" all of our fallen brothers and sisters, so i say here, slick loads of love and much respect to all you beautiful people.
-
BackyardRest
Some lincoln and t-birds (around 68-70) with 429/460's had a modified bellhousing to clear the ac/heater unit. The motor mounts are the same bolt pattern as normal 460's
The 69 Mark III like I have has same insulator as a Boss 429 (yes ford robbed the lincoln mark III mount for the boss 9) Bolt pattern is same.
A 460/429 for a torino would have a frame mount, insulator and a metal engine mount. (happen to have a NOS set)
A truck would have a frame stand, insulator and engine mount. Kind of a pain in the butt style.
Not sure on late 70's lincoln 460's but earlier ones are the same
The 69 Mark III like I have has same insulator as a Boss 429 (yes ford robbed the lincoln mark III mount for the boss 9) Bolt pattern is same.
A 460/429 for a torino would have a frame mount, insulator and a metal engine mount. (happen to have a NOS set)
A truck would have a frame stand, insulator and engine mount. Kind of a pain in the butt style.
Not sure on late 70's lincoln 460's but earlier ones are the same
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BackyardRest
Not sure how my last post ended up here was trying to respond to another about mounts...ezernut9mm wrote:i apprieciate all of your input bry.
i think i have access to a leak down tester.
he says it still has the oil in it. i know pretty much what to look for in the oil (coolant, metallic particles, etc.).
what am i looking for under the valve cover, other than obvious brakeage and sludge?
if you have seen pics of the truck this would be going in you would understand why i don't want to spend 2k on an engine and then another 1k on a transmission.
i really want to find a running driving truck to pull the engine/trans from, but am not having any luck right now so this is just an option and i am not commited to buying it.
i thought for 400$ an engine and trans was a pretty good deal.
Just look for excessive wear on rockers, sludge. I suspect a timing cover antifreeze leak with the fresh orange paint in that area. If you can detect silicone around water pump at timing covers it is even a better indication there is an existing problem.
Borrow the leakdown tester and if its under 20% you should be ok for a while. If you get a cylinder around 50-70 or so run as fast as you can!
Anything uneven also run. Run if any cylinder is under around 130psi
any engine thats 32yrs old plan on it needing a rebuild.
Search your area for one that can be proven rebuilt.
I have taken mid 80's 460's improved mileage 10mpg and made them go another 100k miles with a quick ball hone, new rings, brgs and the mods listed above.
If you simply dont have $$ to spend on it for your own sake check out engine condition before you think about a purchase. You also have to consider if trans will need a rebuild.... and the cost of doing the swap.
I would say 1000.00 will be needed by the time you actually get to drive it. over and above the 400.00 purchase price
- FORDBOYpete
- Posts: 850
- Joined: July 21, 2006, 8:30 am
- Location: East Central Florida USA
It has dish Pistons, Low Comp heads, and a cam timing set that's negative or retarded 3 deg off TDC.
The D3VE Heads, a timing set from a pre 72 460 and a good tune up will help it run better.
If you aren't going to change pistons, use Cast Iron Truck Exhaust Manifolds. P-car driver side will fit, but R/H or Passenger side has to be truck. Lower compression of dished, '77 pistons won't support headers. Not enough back pressure for CID & you get reversion in system at low RPM. The 385 series (460-429) are technically low RPM engines in relatively Stock configuration.
Use the OEM Truck Mounts from a 76-79 F-150-350 or 350 they all work & fit well. they also will not allow the engine to roll over in the engine bay if the insulators (rubber) fails like some aftermarket engine mounts.
Move oil drain plug to back of front sump oil pan. If you do not & you leave it on the side where it is now, you will play hell draining oil since a P-car drain plug ends up over the F series fromt X Member.
The Lincoln C6 is a soft shift type with a V mount on tail housing it's not the most economical or performance oriented version of transmission to run. A C6 from a 351M/400 or a 460 from an F-series is a better A/T IMHO
Also use a recapture style cooling system or you loose enough coolant that it runs hot every so frequently. The coolant recapture systrem stops that. Also run a +198 T-stat for max performance & economy. you may need a 14Lb cap depending on your elevation.
That's all I can think of right now. . . . there may be more.
My 460 runs a nasty 12.6 @ 120+ in street trim and people hate me for it.
Oh Well
DILLIGAF
. . . . .
NO, WAIT, maybe it's a fact I'm a ol' codger, in a truck & it's FORD too. People hate to get beat by that combination,
Hey Pal I'm just obliging your stupid bumper sticker "Bite Me FORDBOY" so I bit you hard
. . . . .
CIAO
FBp
Oh Yeah, Good Luck too they're great engines I get 17+/- mpg when I behave.
The D3VE Heads, a timing set from a pre 72 460 and a good tune up will help it run better.
If you aren't going to change pistons, use Cast Iron Truck Exhaust Manifolds. P-car driver side will fit, but R/H or Passenger side has to be truck. Lower compression of dished, '77 pistons won't support headers. Not enough back pressure for CID & you get reversion in system at low RPM. The 385 series (460-429) are technically low RPM engines in relatively Stock configuration.
Use the OEM Truck Mounts from a 76-79 F-150-350 or 350 they all work & fit well. they also will not allow the engine to roll over in the engine bay if the insulators (rubber) fails like some aftermarket engine mounts.
Move oil drain plug to back of front sump oil pan. If you do not & you leave it on the side where it is now, you will play hell draining oil since a P-car drain plug ends up over the F series fromt X Member.
The Lincoln C6 is a soft shift type with a V mount on tail housing it's not the most economical or performance oriented version of transmission to run. A C6 from a 351M/400 or a 460 from an F-series is a better A/T IMHO
Also use a recapture style cooling system or you loose enough coolant that it runs hot every so frequently. The coolant recapture systrem stops that. Also run a +198 T-stat for max performance & economy. you may need a 14Lb cap depending on your elevation.
That's all I can think of right now. . . . there may be more.
My 460 runs a nasty 12.6 @ 120+ in street trim and people hate me for it.
Oh Well
NO, WAIT, maybe it's a fact I'm a ol' codger, in a truck & it's FORD too. People hate to get beat by that combination,
. . . . .
CIAO
FBp
Oh Yeah, Good Luck too they're great engines I get 17+/- mpg when I behave.
Change is the Only Constant

