Steering wheel

FarmTrk · Post by **FarmTrk** » April 6, 2009, 8:30 am

Hey all it has been sometime since I have posted but I am looking for some info/help.

My truck is all but done and I find that when they upholsstered and rebuilt the seat it is to close to the bottom of the steering wheel and I am looking for a new steering wheel. I found a nice one that uses a LeCarra adaptor. However when I have seen other aftermarket wheels with any kind of adaptor, it looks like they actually raise the wheel a few inches from the top of the steering wheel. It seems that although I would pick up tshe room I needed at the bottom of the wheel, it would push it back at me, which I don't want either. Any info on this would be appreciated.

Gritsngumbo · Post by **Gritsngumbo** » April 6, 2009, 8:54 am

A couple of folks have taken the adjuster brackets off the seat and bolted the seat directly to the floor. Drops the seat down a little and moves it back for more room. Just a thought. I've found a 64 Econoline steering wheel (believe the 57-60 wheels are the same) that puts the wheel about 2" closer to the dash than the original. Just a couple of thoughts.

65 CREW · Post by **65 CREW** » April 6, 2009, 10:59 am

How does the dish of the wheel compare between the stock one and the aftermarket one?

Gritsngumbo · Post by **Gritsngumbo** » April 6, 2009, 11:21 am

The dish is 2" shallower (is that a word?) or more shallow? than the stock wheel. Measured by laying both wheels face down on the floor and measuring from the floor to the housing. I don't have a picture now but will try to take one tonight.

65 CREW · Post by **65 CREW** » April 6, 2009, 12:47 pm

If the aftermarket wheel has less of a dish than the stock wheel it would be a wash to put it on. The steering wheel would end up at the same spot.

Did the new upholstery make the seat back thicker and now you sit farther forward as well as higher up? If not getting a steering wheel with less of a dish will be moving it farther towards the dash, which is what you want to clear the seat, but it will also be a longer reach while driving.

If you have power steering you could go with a smaller diameter wheel.

FarmTrk · Post by **FarmTrk** » April 6, 2009, 1:15 pm

Thanks for the input. Yes I have power steering and am going to a smaller wheel. The stock one is about 17" and I am looking at going to 14". I just don't want it stuck in my chest by sticking out to far.

Gritsngumbo · Post by **Gritsngumbo** » April 6, 2009, 1:48 pm

Here's a couple of pics of the Econoline wheel compared to the OEM wheel and installed. Hard to gauge the wheel to seat ratio with these junkie buckets.

I wanted the wheel closer to the dash and away from my chest. Moving it closer to the dash also keeps it off my legs.

jwh f-100 · Post by **jwh f-100** » April 6, 2009, 1:55 pm

Take a look at this thread. http://fordtruk.com/forums/viewtopic.ph ... t=steering

That OEM ford wheel may be just what your looking for.

Grits, I like that econoline wheel, looks cool.

Gritsngumbo · Post by **Gritsngumbo** » April 6, 2009, 2:26 pm

jwh f-100 wrote:Grits, I like that econoline wheel, looks cool.

Thanks. I like it too! Should look a lot better when I get it refurbished (have a resto kit on the way from Eastwoods). Notice that I was very careful not to say CREW at any time during this message.

zac · Post by **zac** » April 6, 2009, 2:55 pm

Part of the problem, at least for me, isn't so much how close the wheel is to the dash, but the angle it sits at. I believe the '65+ trucks changed the angle to a more "normal" slope, but my '63 (and all '64- trucks for that matter) have got to have one of the weirdest driving positions available. Especially when you come from driving sporty/sports cars. Don't get me wrong, I have no pretensions of my Slick being sporty at all, but a normal seat-steering wheel position shouldn't be reserved for certain types of cars/trucks only.

My solution to the problem is to, wait for it...change the angle of the column by raising it at the firewall. Not quite as easy as it may sound since you have to: cut the column, install a new lower bearing-and make a place for it to live, add a universal or two, build an intermediate shaft, and finally make all that connect to the steering box. Not to mention the firewall mods to accomodate the new location of said column. But it WILL fix the problem!

Don't know if this helps at all (don't know what year of truck you have), but I thought I would throw it out there.

Gritsngumbo · Post by **Gritsngumbo** » April 6, 2009, 3:00 pm

Think Garbz did something similar (raised the shaft so it exits on the firewall rather then the floor) on his 63 build, but he was using the Dakota IFS so hooked the shaft up to the R&P rather than the old box.