Slick 60's

Cool, now I'll have to bring a bigger wagon to the u-pull-it.

Thanx, Tim

ICEMAN6166 wrote:
Rob, maybe this pan will work better for you?

What is that from? Passenger car? Or is that a 262?

My chrome steelies are drilled for two applications BUT I am having a huge brain cramp.. They are either drilled for Ford car & truck OR ford & chevy truck.

Just a possible option... I could measure if anyone is interested in the same style...

So you used the same length axles on both sides? The rear end in my truck does not have same length axles. I never noticed it till we pulled the bed, but it definitely sits off to the side. If I can get my hands on some plain steel wheels for my hubcaps, I am not gonna worry about the rear end yet. But I did have a guy stop buy and wants to buy that rear end...so if the price is good enough, I may have to let it go.


ROb

I am not too familiar with the aerostar; is the frontend a bolted in subframe or does this have to be cut off of a full frame?

It unbolts. 3 long bolts on each side, disconnect steering link and p/s hoses, and cut the brake lines... That is all removal takes


ROb

Thanks IMWT, I might look into this a little harder. I might go to the Pull-a-Part and stare at the Aerostar frontend in person and take measurements.

deviant1 wrote:Thanks IMWT, I might look into this a little harder. I might go to the Pull-a-Part and stare at the Aerostar frontend in person and take measurements.

If you get a chance to take a look at that before I do (I'll reply when I do), can you post up some info on that for everyone?
I'm interested in this type of setup also.
Thanks!

never thought or heard of an aerostar swap like that before

Truckfarmer2 wrote:we grabbed the backing plates but did not have to use them on the truck we converted. Just used 2 left axles and the drums.
The only problem we had was that the car's bearing retainer was wider than the truck's and would rub on the axle seal. Installed a truck bearing keeper and all was good.

Truckfarmer is correct,done a few bumpsides over the years with them and work perfect,definately use truck bearings(learned the hard way),it's getting very hard to find these cars now,you can also use late model 8.8 rear discs,newer explorers etc,almost a 100% bolt on,those are hard to find now,people buying them up for e-bay selling them for fox mustangs,older car swaps.I usually pay $40-50 a set complete,guys put them on fleebay for $250-up,just a thought.
Be sure and measure the backing plates if you do the disc swap the backing plate bolt holes measure 3.5x2,which is the same on the big bearing 9".

So for an update....I got the 223 set back in the truck. I had about 1/2" clearance between the pan and crossmember. I have to modify the rack mounting to point the rack at the cab...but yeah, i had to remove it, because it definitely didn't clear. I am gonna get tires on the front that hold air, and slap the front sheetmetal back on next week. I will get some updated pics when I get that done. Oh, and my neighbor is sposed to be fabbing up, and possibly installing my sway bar mounts this weekend, so we will see how that works out too.


ROb

Any idea what the final ride height will be on the Wife's Truck? How different from stock?

I like the idea - maybe the next truck I will go independent front. That Aerostar looks pretty straight forward.

How'd you determine the axle centerline?

I am gonna get the sheetmetal on the front this week, so I will take a picture and post that up. It is sposed to be 3" drop. I used a little voodoo black magic to find the centerline... I will pm you and tell you how I did that.


ROb

While shopping for Aerostar parts be sure to harvest the tall floor shifter (older models) that nice for a truck, the crank down spare tire carrier, and the aluminum driveshaft. That is the driveshaft in my son's 63.

Yeah, they have a pretty neat, very tall floor shifter. And the big plus, I think they linkage/cable would prolly hook right up to a Ford AOD. I snagged one, but I don't think I am gonna use it. Those trucks also have a very slick accelorator pedal/cable that i simple and easy to remove/adapt from how it looked to me.


ROb

if you use a plumb bob before you remomove the old setup and mark the frame it shoulnt be that hard to align the new stuff the sme way

The centerline is very easy to find on the frame. THe truck uses bumpstops nie and centered above front axle. Those holes make a very nie point to center from.
And on another note...I am gonna have to pull the 223 out. It clears the crossmember, but I am having some wacky issues with it clearing the steering rack, which sticks up maybe almost an inch above the crossmember. So, it is back to the drawing board for the powertrain. I have just happened upon a Explorer 302 with GT40 heads...so I am scratching my head.


ROb

I really don't want to run a 302. That 223 is just so good on fuel. But if it don't fit, it don't fit. And you are right, that Explorer motor would be lots of fun. THe explorer also has a 3.73 posi disc brake rear end under it, which would be very nice also. I gotta drag a battery out and see if the Exploder will run before I get crazy yanking the motor. I have a 4 spd tranny with o/d I could run behind the 302 if I can scare up a bellhousing. Oh well. Atleast I got the front end under the truck were I can roll it around now.

Oh yes, made the brackets to mount the steering rack last night and got them mounted. Had to cut the crossmember. I will post up pics sometime this weekend.


ROb

Is the new suspension bolted in or is it welded on? Maybe you could add a spacer between the frame and the crossmember to clear your oil pan. Cheaper than a v-8 swap I'm sure. Just a thought.