Ford Aerostar IFS install in F100

itsmywifestruck · Post by **itsmywifestruck** » March 17, 2009, 8:44 pm

So I finally got my buddy over to weld the Aerstar IFS under momma's truck. This installation was wicked easy. All I had to fabricate was the upper control arm mounts. Considering I got the front end for free, I feel it was an EXCELLENT choice, considering the ease of installation. I have to notch the crossmember and roll the steering rack towards the cab, and then build the steering linkage. But I am just happy the truck is back sitting on its own weight again. I am just gonna post a link so you can look at the pics on my Myspace.

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.c ... Id=1409097

ROb

Post by **Greg D** » March 17, 2009, 8:51 pm

That looks real good.

don morris II · Post by **don morris II** » March 17, 2009, 10:24 pm

I like it keep us posted on progress thanks

in2hotrods · Post by **in2hotrods** » March 17, 2009, 10:24 pm

Nice pics! You could put this up in the projects and builds section and it won't get lost in the shuffle quite so quickly!

DCarr · Post by **DCarr** » March 17, 2009, 11:04 pm

Looks like a good alternative- any downsides so far?

itsmywifestruck · Post by **itsmywifestruck** » March 18, 2009, 8:33 am

Downsides? Let me see...the upper control arms have almost infinite adjustability, so alignment should be a breeze. I got the front end free, and if you aren't that lucky, you can pickup a complete aerostar for 500 bucks, the price of a wore out Mustang II, and you don't have to spend another 300 bucks on a crossmember...Already have the 5 bolt Ford rotors, so no hubs or rotors to buy to make it right...No strut rod mounts to build, or tubular control arms to buy (once again, reasons I didn't go Mustang II)....AND DID YOU SEE THE SIZE OF THAT SWAY BAR!?!?!?!?!?!?

Moving the steering rack is the worse thing I foresee. You have notch the crossmember and roll the rack back towards the cab to get the steering linkage to line up half decent.
Another precaution- You really need to run a rear sump oil pan on whatever motor you run with this front end. I am planning on putting the 223 back in the truck, and it is front sump. I think the pan MAY clear, but I may have to heat the crossmember and massage it slightly to make a little bit of clearance. I had half way set the motor in the truck before welding the front end up, and it was close.

ROb

DCarr · Post by **DCarr** » March 18, 2009, 10:47 am

Thanks Rob. Are the hubs 5x5.5 or the smaller pattern?

Garbz · Post by **Garbz** » March 18, 2009, 11:12 am

DCarr wrote:Looks like a good alternative- any downsides so far?

Besides it looking butt ugly? The install looks good but the ford design never was called pretty. I think it should handle the weight well as the Aerostar and truck are similar in front and rear weight ratios and transfer.

JC also has this front end installed, between him and IMWT we should get a good actual driving experience out of it. Once some real world driving is there and good reporting it can be termed good. Its basically the same as the panther front suspension. Every one is doing it but no one has any real world driving and miles on one.

The bolt pattern is the same as the ranger exploders.

Garbz

ICEMAN6166 · Post by **ICEMAN6166** » March 18, 2009, 11:25 am

itsmywifestruck wrote:Downsides? Let me see...the upper control arms have almost infinite adjustability, so alignment should be a breeze. I got the front end free, and if you aren't that lucky, you can pickup a complete aerostar for 500 bucks, the price of a wore out Mustang II, and you don't have to spend another 300 bucks on a crossmember...Already have the 5 bolt Ford rotors, so no hubs or rotors to buy to make it right...No strut rod mounts to build, or tubular control arms to buy (once again, reasons I didn't go Mustang II)....AND DID YOU SEE THE SIZE OF THAT SWAY BAR!?!?!?!?!?!?

Moving the steering rack is the worse thing I foresee. You have notch the crossmember and roll the rack back towards the cab to get the steering linkage to line up half decent.
Another precaution- You really need to run a rear sump oil pan on whatever motor you run with this front end. I am planning on putting the 223 back in the truck, and it is front sump. I think the pan MAY clear, but I may have to heat the crossmember and massage it slightly to make a little bit of clearance. I had half way set the motor in the truck before welding the front end up, and it was close.

ROb

Rob, maybe this pan will work better for you?

itsmywifestruck · Post by **itsmywifestruck** » March 18, 2009, 12:02 pm

Yes, that pan would work better. I thought I had read somewhere about a rear sump pan, but did not know it existed.
As far as ugly...yeah, it isn't just beautiful. The upper control arms have some sort of vibration dampers on them. I am gonna try it out without them, cuz they are horrible nasty. I may try to get some plate and make fillers between the shock towers and the frame, but for right now, I just wanted the truck sitting on the ground again.
It is the small ford bolt pattern.
Another note...I didn't measure myself, so I don't know exactly, but this front end is sposed to be 2" wider than the original, which I like, cuz I can run a narrow wheel and tire on front, and they will still sit out good under the sheet metal. I set the sheetmetal on before welding it up, and other than the tires being tiny, it looks good.

ROb

Post by **Greg D** » March 18, 2009, 12:29 pm

Rob, now that you have a 5 on 4.5 bolt circle in the front changing the rear is as simple as junkyard axles. Someone may correct me on this but you will want 2 drivers side from a 77 - 79 Cougar, T Bird, Ranchero or LTD II. Gives you a good excuse to run these.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/05-09-FO ... ccessories

itsmywifestruck · Post by **itsmywifestruck** » March 18, 2009, 1:10 pm

I did not know about being able to swap axles to get the small bolt pattern. But I am prolly gonna just try to find a different rear end. That 3.70 is good, but not without an overdrive. This truck is prolly gonna see a lot of road time, so I need a friendlier ratio.

ROb

61 Merc · Post by **61 Merc** » March 18, 2009, 1:35 pm

By getting the later model axels you would also have to get the third member as the spine count is different. If you are going with a different rear end, consider an 80's full size car with the 8.8 in it, should have some decent gears for highway cruising.

Dean

Post by **Greg D** » March 18, 2009, 1:39 pm

Dean has a good point, I forgot the spline difference.
If you did swap the axles and the diff it would be bolt in affair, swapping the whole axle you would have to move/add spring perches. Lots of good options just depends what you can find and which way you want to go. One up side to a 4.5 bolt pattern - your selection of wheels is much larger. The link I posted to the late model Mustang wheels, those are pull offs from Roush, Saleen etc. they come up on Ebay all the time.

itsmywifestruck · Post by **itsmywifestruck** » March 18, 2009, 2:19 pm

WE are gonna stick with steel wheels and dog dish hubcaps on the truck. But I am not against running a different rearend. Welding spring perches on a rear end is cake compared to a front end swap. My deal is this though....I like the way the back tires and such sit right now. I have 235/75/15's on 7" wheels, and I want to keep that. They sit how I want them to in the wheel well, without sticking out. I may drop to a 70 series tire eventually, but I want to find a rear end that is the same width as the original, and that may be interesting. I am considering a disc brake rear end out of a 90's towncar, but it may be too wide, not for sure yet.

ROb

61 Merc · Post by **61 Merc** » March 18, 2009, 4:25 pm

I believe a town car would be a good choice as the width is not much different than what you have now. My 63 has a rear end out an 83 era LTD, an 8.8 inch and I have no problem with the wheels on her. I am running 235 70R15 on the rear and have room to go bigger if I wish.

If you get into the newer LTD and Grand Marquis, then you will be dealing with a wider setup. Good luck in your decision.

Dean

Truckfarmer2 · Post by **Truckfarmer2** » March 19, 2009, 7:44 am

The axles from a 77-79 Tbird/Cougar, LTD II, Ranchero are 28 spline, just like your truck. I have done this swap twice. Use the left axle and brake drum. Very few cars got a 31 spline axle and those were mostly high performance muscle cars.
Glad to see the Aerostar has made a comeback. We have done a couple of these and really like how easy they are to install. I removed the vibration damper on ours and also cut 1 coil from the springs to lower it some.

Fanatic · Post by **Fanatic** » March 19, 2009, 8:03 am

Greg, are you saying use the axles and drums from the 77-79 and what about the backing plates? I guess I can just measure the drum dia. but since you are a veteran at this!
I found a set of wheels that I REALLY like -but of course -not in truck pattern. I will have the front hubs drilled to match if this is the way to go on the rear.

Tim

Truckfarmer2 · Post by **Truckfarmer2** » March 19, 2009, 8:47 am

we grabbed the backing plates but did not have to use them on the truck we converted. Just used 2 left axles and the drums.

Truckfarmer2 · Post by **Truckfarmer2** » March 19, 2009, 8:54 am

we grabbed the backing plates but did not have to use them on the truck we converted. Just used 2 left axles and the drums.
The only problem we had was that the car's bearing retainer was wider than the truck's and would rub on the axle seal. Installed a truck bearing keeper and all was good.