MPG's

[BigMike]

As I recall, your '65 352 would have about a 9:1 compression ratio new/fresh.
I bet you'd get better mileage if you bumped up the timing to 10* and used 89 octane (mid-grade) fuel.

BigMike,
I challenge you to try these two changes for a similar two weeks as your first mileage test. Let us know how it does....

BarnieTrk

Okay, I set the timing at 10* the other day and filled it with 87 octane. I'm going to run a tank with that and see what the mileage is. Then I'll do another tank with 89 octane and see what happens.

Truck sure has more pep and isn't pinging.

[BarnieTrk]

I drove the rhino quite a bit in georgia, and got between 15 and 19 mpg, depending on how much highway was involved. Here in New Mexico, I have not driven much, so I have no idea. I can definitely feel a drop in power after gaining 4000 feet in elevation.

My setup.

300 6 cyl from a 1980 f100
-no ps or ac
-no mech fan
-synth oil
-3 spd manual with synth oil
-2.70 rear with synth oil
-215/75 r 15 tires

may end up with a 4 spd with all the hills around here...

bobenhotep,
With the thinner air at 4K ft elevation, I'd suggest you re-check your carb settings. You may be able to recover some of your power loss, but I suspect you'll not have the mileage you had at lower elevations.

The issues associated with differences in elevation isn't a problem with the modern Fuel Injection systems of today's vehicles.

BarnieTrk

[bobenhotep]

yeah I looked into that. I can tweak the carb a bit and I should be ok.

[64 f100]

Many years ago, I had a 1964 Olds 88 that got 12 mpg. Wasn't truly satisfied with themileage, and installed a higher voltage coil. this increased mileage about 1 mpg. May help on our trucks, although I have one on my truck now I really didn't think about comparing before and after.

Rich

[charliemccraney]

Many years ago, I had a 1964 Olds 88 that got 12 mpg. Wasn't truly satisfied with the mileage, and installed a higher voltage coil. this increased mileage about 1 mpg. May help on our trucks, although I have one on my truck now I really didn't think about comparing before and after.

Rich

I picked up 2 mpg with a carb change and aftermarket ignition but I don't know if they contributed equally or one had a greater effect than the other because I did them at nearly the same time without testing in between. I did notice improvements in everyday driveability with both. That was just a fortunate coincidence. Both changes were for more power. Better economy was not planned but I'll take it!

[bobenhotep]

I have a gm 4 pin driving a blaster coil, seems to work really good. I got the carb off of rockauto.

[BarnieTrk]

I have a gm 4 pin driving a blaster coil, seems to work really good. I got the carb off of rockauto.

What is a gm 4 pin?

BarnieTrk

[bobenhotep]

a gm 4 pin hei module.

[BarnieTrk]

bobenhotep,

Ahhh, yes.
Thanks for the reply and pic.

BarnieTrk

[BarnieTrk]

yeah I looked into that. I can tweak the carb a bit and I should be ok.

According to my notes, when "tuning for elevation", add one degree of advance for every 1000-ft of elevation (so at 6,000-ft, boost timing to 16*) and change to smaller carb jets and a smaller power valve as you climb in elevation.

Ahh, the joys of ol' school carburetion!
BarnieTrk

[Astrowing]

Aerodynamically, they are pretty much flying bricks. I do think up to about 45 mph they do pretty well, as they did as a farm truck back in the 60's.

Make sure those brakes aren't dragging is the biggest suggestion I can make.

[BarnieTrk]

Aerodynamically, they are pretty much flying bricks. I do think up to about 45 mph they do pretty well, as they did as a farm truck back in the 60's.

Agreed.

Make sure those brakes aren't dragging is the biggest suggestion I can make.

Because these ol' Slicks do not have self-adjusters at the brake shoes, it has been my experience that dragging is usually not an issue.....being too far out of adjustment has been more the norm for me. I suggest that for daily drivers, you may want to jack up each corner (one corner at a time) and check the brake shoe adjustment periodically. If you let them get too far out of adjustment, your wheel cylinder plungers can push out too far - enough to start leaking(!), then you'll be facing a bigger job to correct it (due to brake fluid-soaked shoes & need of a replacement wheel cylinder).

BarnieTrk

[charliemccraney]

I think you can install the automatic adjusters from the newer models.

[BarnieTrk]

I think you can install the automatic adjusters from the newer models.

I've wondered about that, Charlie, but I've never pulled the trigger & bought any parts to see if they'd install on either of my '65s....

Any idea as to what model year would have had the auto adjusters on their front and rear drum brakes?

BarnieTrk

[charliemccraney]

Last year I discovered that my rear end is from a '68 and it has automatic adjusters. I got new ones from Napa. So maybe '68 and newer??

[ICEMAN6166]

auto adjusters were on earlier than 68. some slicks but not all had them, most 64-66 2wd. i believe did.
http://www.fordification.com/tech/image ... ont_01.jpg

biggest thing about adjusters, manual or auto is the use of anti-seize on the threads otherwise they get stuck in place and do not want to do their job. cant tell you how may times i have done brake jobs over the years and found seized up adjusters with no teeth and broken cables.

my brakes are all manual but get adjusted 2x per year when i swap tires. coming up soon again, 4-6 weeks from now.

[milldogg22]

well i thought i would charm in here, im running a stock 223, t98 4 speed trans, 2:73.1 rear gear out of a lincoln, and the best i have got is 20 mpg headed to the dells last fall. around town its not fun with the tall gear because it makes to much of a jump between gears for the ole 223 to handle so it burns alot more fuel.. but im in the process of swaping in a 302 with a 5 speed.. once up in running i will post mpg numbers..
oh yea
truck is 63' f100 2wd lowered about 3 inches

[BarnieTrk]

...im running a stock 223, t98 4 speed trans, 2:73.1 rear gear out of a lincoln, and the best i have got is 20 mpg headed to the dells last fall. around town its not fun with the tall gear because it makes to much of a jump between gears for the ole 223 to handle so it burns alot more fuel.. but im in the process of swaping in a 302 with a 5 speed.. once up in running i will post mpg numbers..

If I'm recalling correctly, isn't your stock '63 223" 6-cylinder engine equipped with a NOT VERY MILEAGE FRIENDLY 1-barrel carbuerator? I have never tried it, but I'd bet your small 223 would actually get better mileage if you installed a 2-barrel carb intake adapter and a 2-barrel carb in good condition.

A Springtime tuneup with new sparkplugs (check the gaps), check the timing, new points, condenser, rotor & distributor cap may also be helpful.

BarnieTrk

[Mazlem]

When I had my '66 I think I maxed out at 13mpg. That was with a 302, 2" straight pipes, 4spd with OD, 3.25 gears and 235/75/15 tires.

[milldogg22]

yea my 63' does have the 1 pot carb... my uncle put a 2 bbl on his 240 and gets 19 on the hwy. it sure would run better with better induction. i guess i forgot to add i did a duraspark conversion as well. a 300 6 dizzy with blue tab box, starts alot better after duraspark and now i have mech and vac advance.