Dissecting A Door

[rcb1020]

I've never completely disassembled a slick door , but I was able to find a complete door that had too much rust for repair. I got it really cheap and a few of the parts I plan to keep. I placed it on a work bench and started taking everything off it and shining a light inside the door so I could see the before and after results. I need to install a window anti-rattle kit and might replace my window glass with a nicer piece. I plan on installing new door locks and cleaning up the door and window mechanism. This was a great way to practice and learn without scratching or breaking anything on my good doors.

Question .... should I use a grease on the window mechanism and lock assembly ? If so which type of grease ?

[Alan Mclennan]

I`d say Lithium grease would be the go!

[rcb1020]

That was my first thought also Alan , should I do the window tracks also ?

[ICEMAN6166]

only inside the track at the bottom with the little roller. i put some on the post before putting the roller on too.

[Uncle Skip]

Personally, I prefer the synthetic HD bearing grease. Kind of expensive, but worth the money.
The white lithium tends to dry out and get hard.
Also, keep all the little screws and bolts that come out of the insides. Keep the little retainer track for the window run that bolts to the back of the door, and the hinge for the vent window. Note where the screws come from. You CAN NOT buy them anywhere so keep them for replacements.
In other words, keep all the guts you can.

[slickmainer]

only inside the track at the bottom with the little roller. i put some on the post before putting the roller on too.

thats where i did mine too, a little 3n1 on the window mechanics but not much

[ICEMAN6166]

.
Also, keep all the little screws and bolts that come out of the insides. Keep the little retainer track for the window run that bolts to the back of the door, and the hinge for the vent window. Note where the screws come from. You CAN NOT buy them anywhere so keep them for replacements.
In other words, keep all the guts you can.

i saved all the usable pieces from all the doors and everything else i have taken apart, while they may not be new i do have them here.

[Lowell]

We used to use powdered grafite in the felt channels if the glass rolled up hard,

[DukeRoche]

I just dissected two scrap doors for the inner parts. I have two others in better condition. Not to steal the topic but is it recomended to gut the door before paint? I would probably have a professional do the paint work. I have the tools, just not the knowledge. This is a ways down the road, just saw this and thought someone might have an idea.

[Uncle Skip]

Matt.
Sorry not to answer your question in the e-mail, but I've been at the hospital with mamma and her broken ankle.
Yes, gut the doors so you can clean them out, insulate them and paint the openings where the gaskets, door run, and trim go. Easier to handle too as they will weigh about 400 pounds less (at least it seems like 400 pounds )

[slickmainer]

no i think 400 is a good guess on a fully loaded door. suckers are heavy

[DukeRoche]

Makes sense then to gut them. If you've never had any paint experience do you guys recommend having a professional do it or doing it yourself. I have the majority of the tools minus a water separater for my air compressor. Just never had to do it before.

[banjopicker66]

If you've never had any paint experience do you guys recommend having a professional do it or doing it yourself. I have the majority of the tools minus a water separater for my air compressor. Just never had to do it before.

I just went through this decision process myself. I know that a little mistake or lack of knowledge about some point of painting will ruin all the work, so I decided to leave the painting to the professionals.
However, I talked with them, and the lead painter is talking me through the preparation process, so I am doing all the heavy work in my garage. This way I can save quite a bit of money by doing the sanding. He will still bondo the dings and dents, as I do not have the skill for that either.
Max sent me a great link to learn about painting, so I will share it:
http://www.autobody101.com - I took Max's advice to read the PDF on the basics, and it helped a lot.
But I can disassemble and reassemble the truck, and do work that doesn't require knowledge of paints or special equipment.
Let me add I am going for a nice paint job that will last for years, and won't have to be redone due to fading, peeling.

So, I bought an air orbital sander, a bunch of 80 and 120 grit sanding pads, a bunch of wire wheels for a small grinder, and have learned that fine dust from sanding gets into everything the wife has stored in the garage.
I have finished the hood, doors, outer fenders and upper valance. There were 4 layers of paint on the hood, and each one had a layer of primer under it! Hopefully, the cab will be finished next week.
I will send him the cab on a rolling frame plus the above mentioned parts, and he will start the final sanding and primering (with urethane, not rattle can primer) while I start on the bed.
He will get the frame with bed, and then do the rest of the work.
I intend to get the frame back with the bed, cab and doors installed; I will install everything else piece by piece.
Since the cab is completely disassembled and stripped of any and all bolts, it will be easier to re-install the under-hood components with the outer fenders still off, so they will go on last.
I am replacing the complete door weather stripping, inside and out, the windshield and back window and their rubber gaskets.
I don't have enough to replace the front seat or the inside chrome beauties, but they work find for now, and won't hurt the new paint.
Check my build pictures.

Notes:
Use Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator on the inside of the doors, up under the nose of the fender, all up under the nose of the hood. Don't be sparing with it.
Make sure your compressor can handle the air tools you want to use.
Be sure to put everything into little jars, bottles or bags and label them.
Be prepared to replace the F O R D letters, CustomCab script, fender badges and hood badge. They look OK now, but the sharp edges of corrosion WILL cut your new paint job where they bolt to the body.
Be prepared to replace the side trim retainers - they will break or be rusted to uselessness when removed.
If you remove the windshield, you can most likely remove the dash pad and have it recovered. Mine cost me $250 this way - but the windshield was cracked and will have to be replaced.
Take the wiring harnesses out in as large a harness as possible. Reattach and reassemble as necessary relays and switches immediately after removing them from the body.
Tag all wiring connectors that do not attach to a switch or something.
If you are wanting to reduce noise, now is the time to install sound deadener inside the doors, behind the gas tank, on the floor and up under the dash.

[DukeRoche]

Thanks for the insight and I apologize again for stealing the topic. When it comes to sound deadning, do you insulate and install the sound deadning kit before the doors are painted?

[banjopicker66]

I think am going to install the deadener inside the doors before painting. It will be easier to install, and will prevent ruining the paint job on the outside. I do not think it will make the door that much heavier, though.
I'll install the deadener in the cab after painting.

[slickmainer]

The only thing that scares me about taking the guts out before painting is that you will have to reassemble the division bar and fuzzy things on a nice clean door...I was not that good at it and made several rookie moves on the the first door. the second door was better but still freaked out when working with the curved runners, fuzzy runners of the middle of the glass and the division bar. be sure to protect the tips and sides of the division bar while installing. I did not enjoy that aspect of putting it back together.

[ICEMAN6166]

The only thing that scares me about taking the guts out before painting is that you will have to reassemble the division bar and fuzzy things on a nice clean door...I was not that good at it and made several rookie moves on the the first door. the second door was better but still freaked out when working with the curved runners, fuzzy runners of the middle of the glass and the division bar. be sure to protect the tips and sides of the division bar while installing. I did not enjoy that aspect of putting it back together.

patience and moving slowly is the key

also its best not removing the plastic from the division bar until its in place

viewtopic.php?f=32&t=11692&start=80

i left the plastic on the division bar so as not to scratch the paint until i was done moving it around to get the vent window in.
best to remove the window crank and door opening mechanism , makes the insertion of the bar much easier. the top of the bar must be above the top hinge nearly to the top of the door to get the right angle for the bottom to push into the door panel opening and stand up. put the window crank and door lever back in after you get the division in place but before you line it up and put in the vent and bolt/screw it together.



the curved runners really need to be carefully pulled/stretched over a pipe or piece of round stock or even the window glass (be careful with the glass) until they get the correct radius, simply trying to bend them inside the door is not the way.

[DukeRoche]

Sound deadning kit like this?

http://www.lmctruck.com/features/FB/FBMP1.htm

my only issue is on one of the vent windows the rubber weatherstrip ripped near the bottom neck of the vent. Not sure how to replace that. I think I'll dissect the good ones and insulate as well. I see your point Mainer, but I got plenty of time to work with.

[slickmainer]

I used this brand. 4x10 for just a few cents more than LMC
http://www.lobucrod.com/

ezcool. it was easy to cut and stuck good with 3M spray adhesion. I just used a bondo board/mixing board to smooth it out and press.

[DukeRoche]

I noticed on the inside of the door it looks like insulation was already started but its starting to come apart/rip off. I'm assuming I'll have to putty knife the original before I re-insulate, or is okay to do it over top?