Cab Repair Sequence of Events - or, Did I mess up?

[624WD]

I just replaced and finished installing the rear cab corners on the 62 4WD.

I need to rebuild the front support areas and replace the lower door hinge pillar on the passenger side.

Is it best to do this while the cab is on the chassis and also do this, by lifting the sagged cab to get the doors to fit, and then, weld in and do the cut and patch, and welding?

I also need to replace, (or cut out and patch in?) the rusted out step assemblies...

Did I screw up? Should I have replaced the steps before I completed the rear cab corners?

What is the best sequence to tackle the step replacement and cab support issues? given that I just closed up the rear cab corners? The passenger side sags and the door fit and gap is out of alignement....the driver side door fits just fine.

You advice is appreciated.

Tom

[William-in-St George]

Well, it depends. How badly is the cab floor and supports rusted? How good are you at welding? Do you have space to move things around and do you have a lift? I like to raise things up to waist level but that is because I am physically limited in my ability to bend and twist. I pull the cab and lay it on its back and have at it. If things are really rusted you will need to weld in some temporary supports to keep the cab square. Many here make the repairs you describe with the cab on the chassis. I think I would do that as well if I had a lift. This will be easier either way without the dog house and power train out of the way. IMHO.

[Mr. Jones]

Went thru a similar experience several years ago,I replaced rusted floors and cab mounts on a 64 style cab,with the doors removed.I didn't think about the cab geometry when putting the new metal in,the results were not good.Door gap ended up over a 1/2" on each side,with enough washers on the hinge side the latch finally caught,on hard right turns it sometimes would open,not good in traffic.
So my suggestion would be,first jack and block the cab until you're satisfied with body lines,check how the steering shaft is centered,is the grill setting level,you may need to raise the core support,check fender lines,check hood lines,check and recheck.Door gap,you may need to squeeze
the lower cab together(ratchet straps)
Once you're satisfied its setting right,proceed one piece at a time.Get some cold beer and enjoy yourself.Good Luck......
Dan
Kansas City

[624WD]

Dan,

Question: So the sequence is? beer last? I would have guessed that the correct sequence would have been;

1. buy beer (cold ones).
2. study the situation.
3. Drink some beers (the cold ones first).
4. Study the situation again.
5. Drink the new cold ones after the first set of cold ones are gone.
6. Study the situation until things begin to look aligned and a little fuzzy.
7. Buy more beers.
8. Start again with #2 above and proceed through the numerical order.

Do I have this right? Just want to make sure I git it right the first time.

thanks for the input to William and Dan.

[mercuryv8]

Dan,

Question: So the sequence is? beer last? I would have guessed that the correct sequence would have been;

1. buy beer (cold ones).
2. study the situation.
3. Drink some beers (the cold ones first).
4. Study the situation again.
5. Drink the new cold ones after the first set of cold ones are gone.
6. Study the situation until things begin to look aligned and a little fuzzy.
7. Buy more beers.
8. Start again with #2 above and proceed through the numerical order.

Do I have this right? Just want to make sure I git it right the first time.

thanks for the input to William and Dan.

Sounds about right.

My truck and yours will be on the road at about the same time. LoL

Doing the cab corners first isn't going to hurt anything. If the doors are fitting good now I would weld in some bracing across the door openings before cutting out the step or the rockers. Then I would probably do the floor, lower door corner, step and rocker, cab mount.

Others will do things differently. As others said keeping the openings the right shape is very important. At times in your work you can hang a door and check it out. Marking the hinges so you can get them back to the same place.

Nic

[Mr. Jones]

Yeah..I got it all backwards,always beer first,think about it, more beer, think about it some more.....

[sgettin]

Pbly no right or wrong way to do it. When i did my 4x4 I knew my cab was already sprung because none of the doors would shut. Did the repairs cab on frame. My order of repair went:

1. Did both sides front A and B pillars. Made them xtra long so i could cut off what i didn't need later.
2. Put a jack under each pillar (cab had sunk onto frame in front) and jacked the cab up until the doors shut right.
3. Got on here and FTE and got door opening dimensions (seems to vary a bit from the fatory). Also got inside door to door dimensions. Pulled cab back together front to back and side to side.
4. Set new cab mounts in place. Put new lower door hinge plates (or whatever they're called) in then tacked new step plates and risers in. made sure everything lines up good.
5. Set new floor pans in several times to check cab mount and step/riser location then welded cab mounts to kick panel area.
welded floor pans in.
6. Cut excess on pillars off. dropped jacks.
7. Jacked around for two weeks trying to get the doors perfect then got pissed and took it to a body shop. picked it up after work best money i ever spent. Door seams were good but not perfect body guy was around when these things were made so he laughed at me a bit and said the openings are fine, the factory never made em perfect back then.
8. Took some time and a lot of beer.

I'm definately a novice but worked for me however everyone does things different so just fyi.
Also Fyi if your truck is as rusted/gone as mine it is easy to get the doors wrong and it's hard to get the plate that's under the step to look lined up right when the door is shut so be careful but it's not that hard to do.

Good Luck.

[62bigwindow]

When I did mine I put a brace in the door opening and a x brace to keep it all in check.Then I cut out steps,riser, lower A and B pillars and rockers.I put rockers and A and B pilars back in then cut floor pans then put floors in then step riser.Wasnt to bad of a job and everything stayed square.I had alot of rust in lower cowl and kick panel and managed to keep door opening the same as it was originally.Not as scary as it looks if you take your time and measure,measure, measure, have a couple of cold ones and measure again before cutting.

[624WD]

I would like to find the factory dimensions for the door openings. Will research here, unless someone has them handy?

Thank you for all of the input...things are looking clearer. Time to go and have a cold one or 18 until the gaps look fuzzy and about right.

Tom

[ToughOldFord]

I would like to find the factory dimensions for the door openings. Will research here, unless someone has them handy?

Thank you for all of the input...things are looking clearer. Time to go and have a cold one or 18 until the gaps look fuzzy and about right.

Tom

Damn, I've been missing out by avoiding body work......