Cab mount bolt removal.

[jwh f-100]

As we all know here, many times things do not come apart easy on these 45 year old trucks. I was starting to remove the bolts by hand. The heads of the front two bolts are thin and as soon as I applied some pressure the socket slipped. I then began to loosen one of the rear bolts. I cranked on one for five minutes and it seemed like I was going nowhere.

Time for a new plan.

I thought I would try to drill one. I started with a 3/8" bit. Drilled down the depth of the head of the bolt then repeated with a 1/2" bit. It worked great. I had the four bolts removed in minutes. I ran my drill at a slow speed keeping the bits from burning up. It was clean safe and easy. Even if you have a "hot wrench" I believe this is the way to go.

My cab now sits about an inch higher and the seams between the doors and the fenders look much better. My tank is relocated but if you ever have your tank removed from the cab for repairs or replacement I suggest you replace the cab mount pads then.

Save them big old washers. I bet they would be handy when installing seat belts.

[ICEMAN6166]

Jason,
that is a good plan. especially if you dont like the smell of burning rubber or bashing your hand up against the truck when the bolt suddenly breaks off.

[Fordman]

i havent done any slicks. but i have used a swazall on the front mounts of bumpsides. they work great the rubbers are almost always bad on them anyway. i have never had any trouble with the rear cab mount bolts.

[Hoss123]

Ran into a problem with my cab mount bolts as well. Impact wrench got them all to move about a 1/4 inch down the threads and then they froze. I was hitting them with PB and trying impact/breaker bar. What finally worked was two people/two breaker bars; both with 3 foot jack handle extentions. Even with that it went slow but was doable. Took about 30 minutes to get them all.