Help Diagnosing a problem...

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Homerboy
Posts: 18
Joined: August 17, 2008, 12:14 pm

Post by Homerboy »

Roger Carter wrote:[quote="

Wasn't there another lengthy post in this thread a min ago with VERY detailed directions? I hit refresh and it disappeared?!?!?

Edit: yeah there was another long detailed post that was removed :(
http://fordtruk.com/forums/viewtopic.ph ... 586#104586 was the link to it... bummer.

I had posted, then re-read the thread. Most of what I had written was covered by Tech. Not wanting to step on any toes, or put too many cooks in the kitchen I deleted my post.

To summarize, I felt the ignition switch was the faulty part, and gave directions on testing it, using a voltmeter or a test light.
I will be glad to re-post if asked.

Roger Carter[/quote]

If you don't mind reposting that would be swell and appreciated.
Homerboy
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Joined: August 17, 2008, 12:14 pm

Post by Homerboy »

tech wrote:No it just means that the points are open and both sides of the coil are at the same potential. 1.9 ohms is about right for a coil.

Take off the distributor cap and rotor. Bump the motor over until the points are closed. The plastic tab on the points should be on a flat not a point.
Now the coil is grounded if the points are good and should have about 9 volts across it.
Also confirm the measurements from the battery ground. not just across the coil.
Tech
Ok I'll give her a go. Sadly I think it will have to wait until tomorrow as the sun is gettin' low and its almost dinner time.

(BBQ chicken and corn on the cob... at least 1 highlight for my day).
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Tech
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Location: Maple Valley, Wa

Post by Tech »

Your right Roger it could be the key. We'll know which way to head when he measures from the coil + terminal to battery ground with the key on!
Tech
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Roger Carter
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Post by Roger Carter »

Homerboy,

Sorry for the confusion. I will PM you the specifics.

Anyway, back to your problem. I believe you have a bad ignition switch. The coil receives it's power from two sources, depending on the position of the ignition key.
In the "start" position the coil is fed directly from the starter relay.
With the key in the "on" or "run" position the coil is fed through the ignition switch.
With a bad ignition switch the engine can start with the key in the "start" position and when you release the key to the "on' position the rig will die, since no power is getting through the ignition switch.
It is not uncommon for these switches to go bad. It was a common problem in the '60's and it still is today. A heavy key ring is the usual culprit.

Here is how I would check the ignition switch:

Look under the dash, by the ignition switch. You will see a wad of wires. Look closer and you will see a Black wire coming off the switch that has a Pink wire plugged into it. The Black wire will be about 4"-6" long. The Pink wire may have insulating cloth loom covering most of it. With the key "off" unplug the Pink Wire from the Black wire.

Turn the key to the "on" or "run" position and check for voltage between the Black wire and ground. It should read battery voltage, 12.5-13 volts. If there is no voltage the switch is bad. Be sure you have a good ground and you are making contact in the plug of the Black wire.

If there is power at the Black wire plug, there is a good possibility the Pink wire (the resistor wire) is bad. This does happen, but not often.
You can check it by checking for continunity (ohms setting on the Fluke) from the end of the Pink wire that plugs into the Black wire at the ignition switch to the (+) terminal of the coil. The (+) terminal is the post that has a wire coming from the main wiring loom. The (-) terminal has the wire from the distributor connected to it.
A good resistor wire (Pink wire) will show some resistance (ohms). A bad wire will show infinite resistance.

Again, I am sure you have a bad switch. That is the most common problem and in my experience the common problems usually have the simplest fixes.
Good luck, hope this helps.

Roger Carter
Homerboy
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Joined: August 17, 2008, 12:14 pm

Post by Homerboy »

And today's winner is.... well nobody kinda.

Roger wins for the "Closest Diagnoses" though. His comment about "heavy key rings" got me thinking as I recently added the remote entry/starter keychain FOB for my wife's car to my truck keyring, making it pretty heavy.

So I crawled under the dash and started looking for the pink wire. Sifting through the next of wires, I noticed a cloth wrapped one. Upon further noticed I noticed some fraying on the cloth where it was resting on the top of the emergency brake lever. Upon further notice that fraying was more like a rough cut directly through the cloth, through the pink insulation and through the silver stranded wire itself... sure as hell, the locking notches in the emergency brake lever had slowly sawed its way through the pink wire.

Pair of scissors, a quick 2 snips and twisting the wires together and she runs good as before. Hell even better with 8 new plugs in her :) Always the simplest things isnt it?

Anyways, as ALWAYS a TREMENDOUSLY huge Thank You to all you guys and your incredible knowledge about these trucks. You have no idea how much a site like this, with such helpful, considerate and patient people means to a simple, ignorant guy like me.

Thanks again and again. If anyone is every in the Milwaukee area, drinks and diner are on me.

Just as an FYI, here's some pics of the girl you saved:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/f2images/s ... 802736952/ (some cool artsy photos my wife surprised me with)
http://picasaweb.google.com/potrzebowski/65FordF250# (random shots)
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Tech
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Post by Tech »

I'm glad that you found the problem but it's no fun when you just find the problem! I learned about bad ford keys and heavy key rings. My dad should have had to replace one every year! Some day you'll be back wanting to dump those points and we'll talk again.
Tech
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Roger Carter
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Post by Roger Carter »

Homerboy,
Glad you found the problem and it was an easy fix.
In my opinion, the only ignorant people are the ones that don't ask for help.
I like your truck, always been partial to the turquoise and white. Looks like it has been "adult owned" for most of it's life. Nice!
A dual master cylinder and power steering would be worthwhile additions.

Roger Carter
Homerboy
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Joined: August 17, 2008, 12:14 pm

Post by Homerboy »

Roger Carter wrote:Homerboy,
Glad you found the problem and it was an easy fix.
In my opinion, the only ignorant people are the ones that don't ask for help.
I like your truck, always been partial to the turquoise and white. Looks like it has been "adult owned" for most of it's life. Nice!
A dual master cylinder and power steering would be worthwhile additions.

Roger Carter
I'd give my 1st born (or at the least my wife) for power steering and better braking.
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Roger Carter
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Joined: July 5, 2008, 7:11 pm
Location: Corbett, Oregon
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Post by Roger Carter »

Let's see.. I already have a first born and my wife is pretty firm about the monogamous relationship thing.... Or I could tell you all the wrong ways and mistakes I have learned upgrading steering and brakes on slicks (as a time saving matter)... Hmmm....

Better try the Technical section of the site. Some pretty good info to be had.

Roger Carter
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