Mustang master cylinder - bleeding rear brakes

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MyDads64
Posts: 16
Joined: July 23, 2006, 5:28 pm
Location: Monroe, LA

Mustang master cylinder - bleeding rear brakes

Post by MyDads64 »

A few years ago I installed a Mustang dual master cylinder on my 64 F100, and installed a Willwood proportioning valve in the line to the rear brakes. I decided to bleed them today, and could not get any fluid out of the rear bleeders - no matter how hard I pressed the brake pedal. I've not read anything about this on the Slick 60s fourm, but I doubt if I'm the only one to have this problem. Perhaps I'm the only one to try to bleed the brakes after the initial installation.

After thinking about it, I belive the solution is to take all adjustment out of the proportioning valve. I intend to try it tomorrow.

Has anyone else had any such experience? If so, what was their solution?

thanks in advance.
Norwood Shelton
Monroe, LA
1964 Ford F-100
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Truckfarmer
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Post by Truckfarmer »

I had a Wildwood proportioning valve in my 56. I had the same results
as you. After adjusting it all the way open and not getting any changes, I removed the valve. It worked better without it.
If you drove a Ford, you wouldn't need a good wrench!
MadMaxetc
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Post by MadMaxetc »

did they bleed when you installed the MC and PV? If they did, then I would say it is cloged or something.
Dan
Project: '63 F-100 LWB / 460 / C6 / 2x4
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Slick Fan
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Post by Slick Fan »

MadMaxetc wrote:did they bleed when you installed the MC and PV? If they did, then I would say it is cloged or something.
:iagree: If it's been a while, water & mud can collect in the bleeder screw hole & pretty much seal it shut. If you unscrew the bleeder screw all the way, you should get some free flowing fluid.
Then just either replace the bleeders, or take a small drill bit to them & dig all the crap outta there. :D If it doesn't flow with the screws removed, you've got further problems. :?

BTW, to avoid getting rust in there, I've gotten in the habit of dabbing some wheel bearing grease in there & slipping one of those rubber vacuum caps over the nipple when I'm done bleeding. That keeps the hole inside looking like new & free of crap, works great. :thumright:
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jakdad
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Joined: July 18, 2006, 4:07 pm
Location: Katy,Texas

Post by jakdad »

Slick Fan wrote:
MadMaxetc wrote:did they bleed when you installed the MC and PV? If they did, then I would say it is cloged or something.
:iagree: If it's been a while, water & mud can collect in the bleeder screw hole & pretty much seal it shut. If you unscrew the bleeder screw all the way, you should get some free flowing fluid.
Then just either replace the bleeders, or take a small drill bit to them & dig all the crap outta there. :D If it doesn't flow with the screws removed, you've got further problems. :?

BTW, to avoid getting rust in there, I've gotten in the habit of dabbing some wheel bearing grease in there & slipping one of those rubber vacuum caps over the nipple when I'm done bleeding. That keeps the hole inside looking like new & free of crap, works great. :thumright:
Great tip!!
Jim
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