jakdad wrote:You can muscle them off but you will get a puller after you get tired of being hit in the mouth with the wheel.
what size arms do you have? the size of a cannon? geez
i have actually done that too, lucky i did not get smacked in the head with the wheel.
however if you are feeling strong, i might suggest a goalie mask to protect your face.
1966 F250 4x4
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
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jakdad wrote:You can muscle them off but you will get a puller after you get tired of being hit in the mouth with the wheel.
what size arms do you have? the size of a cannon? geez
i have actually done that too, lucky i did not get smacked in the head with the wheel.
however if you are feeling strong, i might suggest a goalie mask to protect your face.
ICEMAN, you are no bigger than me so I think I am going to have to call BS that you could pull that wheel off.
Plus...you are old! Maybe back in your younger years!
but ice has a beard dan. and that makes all the difference! lol
MadMaxetc wrote:
ICEMAN6166 wrote:
Fordman wrote:
what size arms do you have? the size of a cannon? geez
i have actually done that too, lucky i did not get smacked in the head with the wheel.
however if you are feeling strong, i might suggest a goalie mask to protect your face.
ICEMAN, you are no bigger than me so I think I am going to have to call BS that you could pull that wheel off.
Plus...you are old! Maybe back in your younger years!
Just kidding!
always
"i believe i've achieved satisfaction".-bubbles
"should i be gettin" baked for this boys?"-bubbles
i could no longer keep "r.i.p.ing" all of our fallen brothers and sisters, so i say here, slick loads of love and much respect to all you beautiful people.
I've used both approaches at the same time. Both work.
As was mentioned earlier, the puller does not have a lot of metal to grab, so for pete's sakes don't expect it to do the whole job.
Before you start, I'd pull the rag joint loose so you don't beat on the steering box - at least make sure there is some clearance. Also now would be a real good time to mark the shaft and the wheel position so you can put the wheel back on right where it came off.
I loosen the nut until it is level with the top of the shaft, so as to protect the threads. Then get your favorite brand of penetrating oil and douse the splines underneath while you gently tap on the nut with a mallet - GENTLY!
It may not seem to accomplish much, but every time you slam that shaft with something solid, on a microscopic level you open the joint up ever so slightly, if only for a second. That's all the time and room that a good penetrating oil needs to go booking down the splines and start loosening things up.
If you don't have a puller, keep oiling and tapping for a couple of days and it will usually come off. If you need it loose sooner, the puller works if you are careful and not overdo it. Knees from underneath will help lessen the load on the puller.
Either way, on an original truck you ought to consider loosening the wheel shaft with penetrating oil first.
